[at-l] Trip Report - Vermont (Long)

[MManzano@aol.com]

CHoovers and I left Union Station in DC on the 9/19, for Rutland, VT.  We were
on the second leg of the journey, out of Penn Station, NY, when we heard an
announcement that the train would stop at Albany and go no further, but that
alternative transportation would be provided.  So we boarded a van for our
final destination and finally reached our motel in Rutland.

Sunday, 9/20:  We were ready for "Blister Sister", who was shuttling us to the
trail head near Manchester Center.  Unfortunately, she had an accident on the
way to pick us up and the left front headlight and turn signal were smashed,
but she got us to the trail and we were finally on our way.  At first we
thought the trail was fairly easy, but after an hour or so it became very
steep - as steep as anything I've climbed since coming out of Bly Gap last
year!  We reached the top of Bromley Mtn - the views were good but it was too
hazy to be able to get any good pictures.  The ski lift was bringing visitors
up, but of course backpackers feel superior for having walked up PLUS carried
a pack!    Speaking of packs, you would think I'd learned my lesson and would
pack ultralight, leaving out all unnecessary items, but NOOOOO.  Someday.....!
We stopped for the night at Mad Tom shelter, which had been torn down.  The
platform was left intact and we camped out on it.  No rain fell that night but
the heavy dew made everything wet.

Monday, 9/21:  Headed out feeling pretty sore from the pack straps, the boots,
and the steep climbs.  More of the same today; ended up at Peru Peak shelter
around 1:30 pm and decided to stay for the night.  There was a brook in front
of the shelter and as we'd had a pretty dry day, we were glad for all the
water.  I set up my tent and sleeping bag to dry out the dampness from the
night before.  No vistas today, either because of the hazy weather or the
trees blocking the views.  The caretaker from Griffiths Lake stopped by and
said there were severe storm warnings predicted, so I took down the tent and
moved into the shelter.  False alarm - no rain and woke to a very beautiful
morning.

Tuesday, 9/22:  About a mile down the trail we ran into Felix and Ke Kanaawe
heading south, so we stopped to chat for a little while.  Further along the
trail we stopped to talk to Rockdancer, who thru hiked last year (see his
journal on Trailplace).  He said he's hoping to hike as far south as Harper's
Ferry.  Today was a beautiful hike - much of it was level and none of it
involved steep ups or downs except for Baker's Peak, which is a tough climb up
the rocks.  The view at the top was spectacular but swirls of mist were trying
to block the views from my camera lens.  We stoped for lunch at Lost Pond
shelter, where there was a good water supply.  While we were eating the rain
hit and we considered staying there overnight, however, in a couple of hours
it stopped and we decided to hike on to Big Branch shelter.  It was situated
up the bank from a river which had plenty of water although the level was low;
climbed around on the boulders for a while.  I just love it when the shelter
is right on the trail and the water is within sight!  We may have more rain
tonight.

Wednesday, 9/23:  It has been cold and breezy today, but the sky is beautiful
and puffy white clouds rush by.  Once I finally got out of the sleeping bag I
was ok.  We were at Little Rock Pond in a short time - the pond is beauitiful
but the trail follows the edge of it and is extremely rocky and narrow.  We
intended to stop for lunch at Little Rock Pond shelter, but it was too early
and too cold so we took only a short break.  About a mile beyond the shelter
was the last reliable water source of the day so we filled up our bottles.  Of
all the times my filter could fail....this was the worst.  I'll never leave
home again without an emergency supply of iodine tablets.  The next 4 miles
were some of the most beautiful and most difficult of the trail so far.  White
Rocks Mtn is covered with pines and huge white boulders.  We passed a circle
of large rocks which reminded me of a miniature henge.  I spent about 15
minutes there but it was too cold to sit still for long.  Went on to Greenwall
shelter which is situated in a pretty enough spot but the nearby streams were
dry and the spring had murky looking water.  We had heard it was a dry shelter
and had carried in a good enough supply for the evening.  We were visited by a
group of 5th graders who were on a field trip counting hawks.  They had lots
of questions about our hike, gear, food, etc., and were fascinated when I
fired up my MSR whisperlite.  They left and 3 more hikers joined us for the
night.  

Thursday, 9/24:  Got a late start this morning - 9 am.  We only had 5 miles to
go today and the 1st two were downhill, so we planned to go slowly and enjoy
it all.  After the 2 downhill miles the trail became a roadwalk uphill for
another mile - first gravel and then a dirt road.  It was a nice walk past
some very attractive farmhouses.  A steep climb up Button Hill peak didn't
produce any views but there was a nice big rock in the sun inviting for us to
sit for a while.  Another mile brought us to Minerva Hinchey shelter.  The
spring was slow moving but the water was relatively clean;  Cheryl got my
filter working so we had enough water - always a concern and never taken for
granted.  We were joined later by Mike the Mule and a '96 thru hiker, Tom of
"Tom & Millie".  During the night I awoke to the howling of coyotes on 2
different occasions.  It was eerie - I counted 5 or 6 voices and their howls
lasted for what seemed to be a long time.  The sound brings all your senses to
full alert!

Friday, 9/25:  We awoke on the last day of the hike to another beautiful
morning.  We came to an open view about a mile beyond the shelter, with no
mist to obstruct it.  Unfortunately the colorful foliage is still in the north
and is pretty sporadic in this part of Vermont.  Left the trail and road
walked half a mile to the Whistle Stop restaurant and a huge hamburger, then
another half mile to the Oasis Sports outdoors store where we found the owner
willing to shuttle us into Rutland.  Spent the night at a motel, too tired to
go out to eat but not too tired to pick up a couple of six packs, chips & dip
from a convenience store across the street.  The next day, Saturday, we walked
to the Amtrak stop and caught the train home.  

The trip was successful in every way - good company and fine trails, and it
showed me that I can still backpack!  The Lowe Alpine Scirocco seems to be a
perfect pack for me, and could be even more comfortable if I go lighter next
time.

Gypsy
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