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[at-l] SLACKPACK TOUR summary

This is a summary of my experiences along the Appalachian Trail this
summer...

My intention for the summer was to determine if the idea of supporting
long-distance hikers along the AT (the 1997 SLACKPACK TOUR) would be
viable.  In other words, if I could not make this work, then it would be
back to the cubicle, 40 hours a week, Monday through Friday...

In the fall I had placed an ad in the Appalachian Trailway News seeking
partners for a hike beginning Easter weekend.  From this ad came many
inquiries, but only one person agreed to take a risk and come along with
me.  SUNSHINE would arrive at Springer Mountain on April 12...

I began day-hiking around Amicalola Falls State Park, Springer Mountain,
and northward along the AT, during Easter weekend.  Over the next
week-and-a-half I hiked to the Nantahala River.  An injured hiker,
GILAMAN, drove my van, meeting me at road crossings.  GILAMAN had
seriously damaged his knee in a fall just a few days into his thru-hike. 
He agreed to spend the summer with the SLACKPACK TOUR.  On the 10th of
April, GILAMAN and I drove to Atlanta to pick up another fellow, who
became known as PANTHER FAN, that I had hired to work support for the
summer...

SUNSHINE and her husband, GARY, arrived at the USFS42 trail crossing
parking area at 6pm on the 11th of April.  They hiked the short distance
to the summit of Springer Mountain and back.  After a rainy night tenting
at the road crossing, SUNSHINE and I started the SLACKPACK TOUR by hiking
north...

ITINERARY:  Springer Mountain - 8.1 miles - Hightower Gap - 11.9 - Woody
Gap - 10.7 - Neels Gap - 10.6 - Low Gap - 13.8 - Tray Gap - 11.7 - Dicks
Creek Gap - 15.6 - Deep Gap - 13.1 - Mooney Gap - 11.3 - Winding Stair
Gap - 14.6 - Burningtown Gap - 12.7 - Nantahala River - 13.6 - Stecoah
Gap - 15.8 - Fontana Dam

We quickly became a tight unit, hikers and staff.  In Franklin NC we all
began hysterically laughing while eating desert at the Hickory Ranch
restaurant.  It was our first memorable time away from the trail.  This
scene would repeat itself as the summer progressed...

The hike from Springer to Fontana Dam NC spans only a couple of weeks,
but seems like a lifetime.  Your senses are stimulated by the many hills,
the many pains, the many hikers, and too much weather.  The joyous
demands of the trail had not allowed SUNSHINE to really consider how
badly that she missed her husband.  Our first day off was not a good time
for her.  We met PETER PAN, TIMMY and SHAMROCK while in Fontana Village
NC.  They decided to join the TOUR.  PETER PAN, who is married to TIMMY,
would become an occasional member of the group as he split his time
between the TOUR and Boone NC, his home.  TIMMY would stay with us to the
end, and SHAMROCK only to Damascus...

Fontana Dam - 12.4 miles - Russell Field Shelter - 8.8 - Derrick Knob
Shelter - 10.1 - Clingmans Dome - 7.9 - Newfound Gap - 10.4 - Pecks
Corner Shelter - 12.9 - Cosby Knob Shelter - 9.8 - Pigeon River - 13.4 -
Max Patch Road - 13.6 - Garenflo Gap - 12.5 - Tanyard Gap

The trip through the Great Smokies started  cold, wet, windy and
miserable, becoming calm and clear at the end.  My favorite place along
the trail is in the Smokies, Charlies Bunyon...

Mountain Momas Kuntry Store and Bunkhouse is as interesting as its name
would suggest.  Ask SUNSHINE about the trampoline...

Our second day off was in Hot Springs NC.  We stayed at the Sunnybank
Inn, a wonderful victorian style mansion.  All seven of us (me, SUNSHINE,
TIMMY, SHAMROCK, PETER PAN, GILAMAN and PANTHER FAN) ate the vegetarian
meal on the first night, but only SUNSHINE and I survived to the second
night.  The rest consumed hamburgers across the street...

Tanyard Gap - 15.0 miles - Camp Creek Bald - 14.0 - Devil Fork Gap - 8.2
- Sams Gap - 13.6 - Spivey Gap - 12.3 - Nolichucky River - 17.8 - Iron
Mountain Gap - 12.7 - Carvers Gap - 16.9 - Campbell Hollow Road - 15.9 -
Dennis Cove - 12.8 - Watauga Dam Road

Trail Days in Damascus VA was our third day off.  The town was awash with
unwashed hikers.  We bid farewell to SHAMROCK here...

Six straight nights were spent at the home of TIMMY and PETER PAN, near
Boone NC, as we hiked towards Damascus VA.  We would have the priviledge
of spending many a night at peoples homes as we hiked north.  This was
mostly due to friends and family of TIMMY and SUNSHINE...

Watauga Dam Road - 16.0 miles - TN91 - 10.7 - McQueens Gap - 16.7 -
Straight Branch - 18.2 - Elk Garden - 16.9 - Fox Creek - 19.1 - VA601 -
15.5 - I81 - 12.0 - VA42 - 17.3 - VA623 - 16.5 - VA612 - 17.6 - VA606 -
13.4 - Sugar Run Gap - 12.3 - Pearisburg VA

We had a bitter cold night at Elk Garden . . . the wild ponies at Grayson
Highlands State Park were a definite kick . . . we caught up with a pack
of hikers at I-81, near Atkins VA, all staying at the Village Motel . . .
the Dairy Queen was nice . . . the pavilion near Ceres VA had re-opened
to hikers this year.  It had been off-limits in '96...

I stopped hiking full time during this last section.  My time physically
on the trail tapered off slowly as the TOUR continued...

Pearisburg VA was a day off.  Absolutely nothing exciting happened...

Pearisburg VA - 21.5 miles - VA635 - 17.9 - VA42 - 18.8 - VA620 - 12.9 -
VA311 - 19.6 - US220 - 15.5 - Blue Ridge Parkway, milepost 95.9 - 14.8 -
VA714 - 11.6 - Blue Ridge Parkway, milepost 74.9 - 15.7 - VA812 - 20.0 -
US60 - 19.7 - Crabtree Falls Road - 16.2 - Reeds Gap - 16.4 - Rockfish
Gap

The climb down from Dragons Tooth is tough . . . McAfee Knob and Tinker
Cliffs are wonderful, the views inspiring . . . you enter a new world
along the Blue Ridge Parkway, beginning your glide through Virginia. 
It's easy, scenic and boring...

Our next day off was at the CROZET HOSTEL, the home of a friend of
PANTHER FANs, in Crozet VA, just outside of Waynesboro VA.  SUNSHINEs
husband came to visit.  It had been two months since they had seen each
other...

Rockfish Gap - 13.5 miles - Skyline Drive, milepost 92.4 - 13.9 - Loft
Mountain Campground - 17.5 - Skyline Drive, milepost 65.5 - 17.1 - Big
Meadows Campground - 17.3 - Skyline Drive, milepost 31.5 - 16.1 - Skyline
Drive, milepost 15.9 - 17.8 - VA638 - 14.2 - US50 - 13.5 - Bears Den
Hostel - 19.4 - Harpers Ferry WV - 17.2 - Reno Monument Road - 15.6 -
MD77 - 15.2 - Old Forge Park - 14.9 - Sandy Sod Junction - 15.9 - Pine
Grove Furnace State Park - 13.4 - Whisky Spring Road

The hike through Shenandoah National Park was filled with deer and bear
sitings . . . "Trespassers will be eaten" is the sign along the trail as
you pass by the National Zoo near Front Royal VA . . . Bears Den Hostel
is a wonderful place (they have Ben & Jerrys Ice Cream) . . . the
Appalachian Trail Conference headquarters is in Harpers Ferry WV, where a
stop will rejuvenate the spirit.  You are welcome there...

Pennsylvania keeps the spirit soaring until Pine Grove Furnace State
Park, considered the official mid-point of the trail.  The rocks and
boulders bring reality into focus...  

We took two days away from the trail...

Whiskey Spring Road - 14.0 miles - US11 - 17.7 - Duncannon PA - 18.1 -
PA325 - 17.2 - Swatara Gap - 19.9 - PA183 - 15.0 - Port Clinton PA - 15.7
- Hawk Mountain Road - 17.6 - Bake Oven Knob Road - 14.6 - Little Gap -
15.5 - PA33 - 8.1 - PA191 - 8.2 - Delaware Water Gap PA

TIMMY did not have a good time in Pennsylvania.  Her health was not at
the best, and the infamous rocks and boulders were causing her some
anguish...

Delaware Water Gap PA - 16.4 miles - Flatbrookeville Road - 10.8 -
Culvers Gap - 14.3 - High Point State Park - 13.7 - Wallkill Road - 13.8
- Warwick Turnpike - 16.6 - West Mombasha Road - 13.6 - Seven Lakes Drive
- 17.5 - Graymoor Monastery - 16.3 - Long Hill Road - 14.4 - Old Route 55
- 18.1 - CT55 - 15.5 - River Road - 17.9 - Housatonic River - 10.8 - CT41
- 16.9 - Jug End Road - 15.0 - Benedict Pond - 15.3 - Goose Pond Road -
16.9 - Blotz Road - 15.7 - Cheshire MA - 14.0 - MA2 - 18.4 - VT9 - 10.1 -
Goddard Shelter - 12.5 - Arlington Road - 17.5 - Manchester Center VT

SUNSHINE had injured herself (groin pull) as she hiked through
Pennsylvania.  She stubbornly continued hiking until she could not hike
any longer.  After three days rest, she continued hiking.  She and Timmy
were now on schedules that were three days apart.  This posed some
problems for us in the support van.  SUNSHINE re-injured herself as she
entered Connecticut, and had to take a full three weeks off.  She
remained with us, in the support van, anxiously awaiting her return to
the trail...

NTO (Not To Old) joined up with us in New York.  She fit us well.  Her
contribution was a no nonsense, let's get it done attitude, that infected
us all.  We would meet much of her family as we headed north...  

Bagels.  Fresh, warm, huge bagels.  What a joy.  Bagels may be the best
thing about New Jersey and New York.  Alright, alright, the Zoo at Bear
Mountain NY was a hoot...

Connecticut and Massachusetts are quick and painless.  Vermont felt
right, as if the trail belonged there...

GILAMAN left us.  He had been part of the TOUR since the beginning.  He
was our organizer.  We enjoyed the time he had with us, and missed him
terribly as we headed north...

We took a day of in Manchester Center VT, staying at the Zion Church
hostel, and visiting the Ben and Jerrys store...

Manchester Center VT - 5.3 miles - Mad Tom Notch - 12.0 - USFS 10 - 14.4
- VT103 - 6.0 - Upper Cold River Road - 14.5 - River Road - 17.7 - VT12 -
14.0 - Podunk Road - 14.0 - Etna Hanover Road

What a spectacular place Vermont is.  The mountains, the scenery, the
aroma.  We are all rejuvenated...

Etna Hanover Road - 13.4 - Lyme Road - 18.8 - NH25C - 11.5 - Sanitarium
Road - 7.8 - Kinsman Notch - 16.3 - Franconia Notch - 10.3 - Garfield
Ridge Campsite - 9.7 - Zealand Falls Hut - 7.7 - Crawford Notch - 12.6 -
Mt. Washington - 13.4 - Pinkham Notch - 5.9 - Carter Notch Hut - 15.2 -
Gorham NH

Reality hit hard as the ladies hiked over Mt. Moosilauke in New
Hampshire.  The trail went above tree-line, the temperatures were
dropping, the winds were whipping at 60 mph.  It was the most difficult,
most dangerous hike of the entire trip.  This experience would be
recalled often as we headed north...

We ate at the Road Kill Cafe in North Woodstock NH.  Watch out for the
whipped cream...

The Presidential Range in New Hampshire offers some extreme hikes and
views.  This is a tough, tough section...

Steer clear of Bruce, from the Paradise hostel, in Gorham NH.  He showed
us little respect...

Gorham NH - 14.6 miles - Success Trail - 8.4 - Mahoosic Notch Trail - 8.2
- Grafton Notch - 10.3 - East B Hill Road - 10.1 - South Arm Road - 13.3
- ME17 - 13.1 - ME4 - 10.7 - Poplar Ridge Shelter - 13.2 - Caribou Valley
Road - 9.1 - ME27 - 15.9 - East Flagstaff Road - 16.3 - Pierce Pond Road
- 11.5 - Moxie Pond - 10.9 - Piscataquis River Road - 13.9 - Monson ME

Roots, rocks, rain, moose, roots, rocks, rain, moose . . . Maine is best
hiked in a slow, methodical manner...

We again ate at Road Kill Cafes, in Rangeley ME and Greenville ME.  We
took a day off at Shaws Boarding Home in Monson ME.  This place is
legendary.  The food is basic and plentiful.  SUNSHINE, NTO and I
chartered a float plane that took off from Moosehead Lake and flew us to
Mt. Katahdin and back.  What a kick...

Monson ME- 14.3 miles - Long Pond Stream Road - 16.1 - 16.1 - Pleasant
River Road - 14.3 - West Branch Ponds Road - 13.8 - Jo-Mary Road - 15.2 -
Nahmakanta Lake Road - 8.3 - Pollywog Stream - 17.4 - Abol Bridge - 9.9 -
Katahdin Stream Campground - 5.2 - Mt. Katahdin

Mt. Katahdin is visible for many days as you approach.  The terrain
flattens out, and the views become spectacular.  The best view for me was
from campsite #22 at Jo-Mary Campground...

The day for our assault of Mt. Katahdin was cold and windy and overcast. 
The ladies headed up the main trail, while I swung around to the other
side of the mountain and hiked up from there.  I never made it.  The
temps dropped as I climbed, and the winds increased.  That was enough for
me.  I was within a mile of the summit...

SUNSHINE, TIMMY, and NTO made the summit.  It is said that SUNSHINE
dropped her drawers in celebration.  They were very tired, but jubilant,
as they came off of the mountain.  We celebrated with pizza in
Millinocket ME...

************************************

After the hike -

NTO arrived home to a surprise community celebration.  A police escort
lead her past schoolchildren lining the roads, holding signs and
cheering.  It was a good day for her...

TIMMY, with the aid of her husband PETER PAN, hiked most of the miles
that she had missed early on in her hike.  She has some miles yet to do
in New England, and may join the 1998 SLACKPACK TOUR to hike these
miles...

SUNSHINE remained in New England in order to hike the miles that she had
missed due to her injury.  After a few weeks, she headed home for her
wedding anniversary.  She had not seen her husband in four months.  After
a few days, she returned to the trail for another week, and finished...

PANTHER FAN stayed with SUNSHINE to provided support as she finished her
hike...

Five days after climbing Mt. Katahdin, I was at work sitting in a
cubicle, staring at a computer.  The transition has been tough.  This
winter will be filled with planning and recruiting for the TOUR in
1998...


Rick Mann, aka Pittsburgh
PLEASE VISIT:  www.hike-usa.com (available soon)
phone:  1-800-803-2767
email:   slackpacker@bigfoot.com
1997 SLACKPACK TOUR website:   www.geocities.com/yosemite/trails/4404
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