[at-l] San Juan Trekking aka Camping Up High with my posse!

[pmags at yahoo.com (Paul Magnanti)]

The San Juan Range in Colorado contains the most
remote, rugged and beautiful mountains in Colorado. 
Sharp, pointy peaks. Many vallies that can be reached
only by unofficial "herd trails" at best or
cross-country travel for the most part.  Large (esp.
by Western standards) alpine lakes. Abundant wildlife.
Wildflowers making a colorful quilt over the hill
sides.

For four days I trekked through the backcountry of the
San Juans. For four days I was "home again" in the
mountains. 

The trek started in Durango Colorado with a ride on
the historic Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge RailRoad.
Back in the 1880's, this train shipped much minerals
and ores from the San Juans range into the towns
surrounding this range. Somewhat later, this same line
was a luxurious way for many of the "robber barrons"
to go into the mountains. Over a hundred years later,
it is now a major tourist attraction for people to see
the mountains. It also allows hikers and rafters a
relatively easy way into more remote stretches the
mountains. The train actually stops at trailheads.  I
must admit I wish I had hiked in, but it was a unique
experience and one I am glad I did.

In any case, after we loaded our gear into the train
and worked our way into the mountains, the train
dropped us off at the Elk Creek trailhead. This trail
is part of the Colorado Trail. After a 4 mile, mainly
uphill hike to a beaver pond, hiked a herd path and
crossed a stream to enter a gorgeous valley.  Three of
us waited for a LONG time for most of our group to
show up. No worries, though, the valley was fantastic.
During the wait, my friend Mark appeared. He had spent
the previous 6 days in the San Jauns and had arranged
to RSVP with us. 

Mark entertained us with his tales of peak bagging,
cross country travels and his high campsite he had
been using  for the past two nights that  I knicknamed
the "Goat Lair". Since I love camping above treeline,
took him up on the offer to camp with him (and his
fiance' Judi who also met up with him on this trip) in
this awesome area. And what a view from the camp
site!!!!!!! Totally surrounded by the San Juans, over
looking a lush valley and a "posse" of mountain goats
that were mere feet from us. Everyday I would hike in
the valley to meet up with some of the other
hikers...but at night would climb the mile backup
(cross-country) to this most awesome campsite. Even
had a snow melt stream not too far away... 

In any case, the first full day of being in the San
Juans three of us (Mark, Nahum and myself) did a
approx. 10 mile cross-country route in the San Juans.
Three passes (12800' - 13000'!), snow and scree
fields, awesome views, blue lakes, wildflowers and
only saw four people during the entire loop!
Had flashbacks of the High Sierras going over the
passses, climbing back up and repeating. Hard
hiking...awesome views. It was a highlight of my
hiking "career" to say the least.  As I looked at my
map, also noticed a CDT symbol that was on the ridge
over... Yay! Always get excited when I am near long
trails. :-)

Made it to Vestal Lake where we saw some of our group
hanging out. They were surprised to see us coming over
the ridge to say the least. :-) Went back to the
campsite and enjoyed an incredible San Juans sunset.

The following day, did a climb of Arrow peak. This
class three scramble is supposed to be a classic.
Alas, some grey clouds came in about an hour from the
summit. :-( The thought ran through my head about
"there are old mountaineers and there are bold
mountaineers but there are few old and bold
mountaineers". Scamped back down, talked to some of my
friends who were camped in the valley (and some of
whom just did a technical route up Wham ridge) and
noticed the sun breaking out.. Oh well...  No matter,
still had some incredible views of near the summit.

The last night, saw yet another gorgeous sunset from
the campsite. The following morning, packed up quickly
for more clouds were coming in and made our way back
to the Elk Creek (CO) trail. This was Mark's first
time in 10 days on a "real" trail!  I earned some good
Karma by switching packs with Judi. Her pack had lots
of climbing equipment on top of the standard (i.e not
fast and light thru-hiking!) backpacking gear. Her
reply when putting on my 12 lb pack? "I feel like I
can hike again!!!".  In any case, friends of mine who
know how I backpack did a double take when they saw me
carrying a  "real" backpack. :-) Made much better time
once the packs were switched.  Got to the trailhead a
good three hours before the train came. Took a much
needed dip in the stream and felt fairly clean.  
(And, looking back on it...I did not realize there was
a train coming by that did not make a stop. Finished
before the train came. Would have been rather funny to
see all those tourists seeing me in my ah "natural"
state. :D )

Boarded the train, slept for a bit on the way back,
made it to Durango where Judi wanted to by me a meal
(said no...she insisted on thanking me...I compromised
with a yummy beer. :D). We all woofed down vast
quanities of meat, salad and fries. Drove back to
Boulder with Nahum (aftering drinkling much coffee..it
was a seven hour ride!). And made it to Boulder for
3:30 AM. Keep in mind I work at 8AM. :O

Good trip. One of my most memorable inthe CO
backcountry.

Pics can be seen at:
http://gallery.backcountry.net/Co03?&page=9

Enjoy!

Mags


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The true harvest of my life is intangible.... a little stardust caught, a portion of the rainbow I have clutched
--Thoreau

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