[at-l] Spur hikes to the GA Ruck, 1/16

[spurhiker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (spurhiker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)]

1/16/03: South from Neels Gap

Morning rolls around faster than I'd expected. Maybe it's the warmth of the=
 electric radiator next to my bed in the hostel. I could sleep for a long t=
ime here.

Around 8:30 I finally get up though, have a quick breakfast, pack up my stu=
ff, then head upstairs to the outfitter store after it opens around 9 AM.

Winton and Margie tell me snow is predicted for this afternoon, possibly up=
 to 6". That could make these last 38 miles extra fun.

They have no lithium AA batteries in stock, so I'll be nursing the recharge=
ables in my camera a couple more days. I buy a new fleece cap to wear at ni=
ght, plus a few candybars, then say good-bye and head out of the gap up the=
 east flank of Blood Mtn.

The first mile is a breeze but when the climbing begins, a southbounder kno=
ws he's going up a mtn. It's rocky, rough and steep, made somewhat easier b=
y huge stone steps installed here and there by trail crews a few years ago.

This section, Neels Gap to Woody Gap, is the first section of the AT I ever=
 hiked, probably back in 1961 as a Boy Scout around age 12. Back then we ca=
lled it a 14-mile hike. The sign at the road says 11.3 miles. The Databook =
says it's only 10.7. Regardless, the climb up Blood Mtn is a good challenge=
 for a southbounder.

As I near the top the first snow flurries begin to swirl. From the granite =
overlooks there are stupendous views of the arriving weather front. The hor=
izon is bright and clear, but a thick band of dark gray with menacing strea=
ks of lighter gray give the sky an eerie look.

I take a few photos, then hasten across the summit past the old stone fire =
warden's cabin and down into the rhododendron thickets which shelter the tr=
ail on the west side. At Slaughter Gap the trail switches back sharply and =
begins a SW traverse of the ridge.

In mile 6 I pass through Jarrard Gap, which according to Winton is where th=
e young woman was accidentally shot by a hunter back in November. He said s=
he's doing okay now.

The trail cruises down to 3000 feet after crossing Burnett Field Mtn, and a=
round 1 PM I stop for a quick lunch. Just after I resume hiking, snow begin=
s falling again. This seems to be the real deal. The problem is it's not fa=
lling so much as blowing horizontally from the south, which is the general =
direction I'm walking. I pull my hat low but the snow still stings my eyes.

Unbelievably I encounter a young woman out walking her shorthaired shiverin=
g dog in the middle of this snowstorm. She's headed away from the road towa=
rds which I'm walking.

I cross Big Cedar Mtn in heavy wind with snow piling up in drifts at the to=
p. It's still snowing very hard.

When I reach the road at Woody Gap, I see another hiker fussing with his ge=
ar under the little kiosk here. With him is a tiny little terrier, no bigge=
r than a small cat. Twinkletoes is wearing little dog booties and a coat bu=
t is cold, wet and shivering.

Her master, Tadpole, began a thruhike at Springer on Monday, the same day I=
 left Deep Gap. It's his 2nd thruhike. His first was back in 1997. He and T=
winkletoes just went into nearby Suches to resupply. Tadpole picks the dog =
up and places her inside his coat, which he says is where she usually stays=
 while they're hiking. She warms up quickly and ceases shivering.

Tadpole says he's out this early because he had time and wanted to beat the=
 spring thruhiker rush. Hey, it won't be very crowded in the Smokies in Feb=
ruary!

I cross the highway with the snow falling hard, now about 2" deep. With my =
hat pulled low I can barely see just a few feet in front of me. I envy Tadp=
ole the ski goggles he was wise enough to bring along.

I'm about 4 miles from Gooch Gap Shelter and fortunately there's not much c=
limbing twixt here and there. The going is quite slow though since the fres=
h snow camouflages the rocks and possible ice underneath and I don't want t=
o fall now.

The forest and trail are beautiful under this new white blanket and I enjoy=
 looking around whenever the wind abates or blows from behind.

Around 4:45 I cross through Gooch Gap and pass the sidetrail to the old she=
lter. A brand new one has been built a little further south but its locatio=
n is not listed in my old Databook. I figure it's just a few tenths of a mi=
le further, but I walk for over a half hour before it finally comes into vi=
ew. It's known as the Gooch Mtn Shelter.

Naturally I have it all to myself. I fill up water from the nice spring beh=
ind the shelter, then move my belongings up to the 2nd level where no snow =
has blown in as it has down below.

I lay down my sleeping pad and cover myself with my sleeping bag, then begi=
n a long, leisurely meal preparation. I have two dinners in my pack, so I c=
ook and eat both, one at a time, washing them down with hot drinks.

It's a bit breezy inside the shelter but not bad, and it's pleasant having =
a comfortable space to cook in. The temperature is right at freezing, warme=
r than it's been any night yet on this hike. Unless it gets much colder dur=
ing the night, I won't set up the tent.

Today's hike brought me about 15 miles, and there's about 15 left to reach =
Springer Mtn. Tomorrow I'll shoot for an early start though I'm not passion=
ate about the idea of hiking before sunup. If I make it to Springer by 3 PM=
 I may push on the remaining 7-1/2 miles to Amicalola since it's mostly dow=
nhill.

Otherwise I'll likely stay in the shelter on top of Springer and walk into =
the Ruck event on Saturday morning. I still have Justus, Sassafras and Hawk=
 Mtns to climb, plus the 1300-foot ascent up to Springer from Three Forks, =
so it looks doubtful I can make it all the way to Amicalola through fresh s=
now tomorrow.

In any case, I intend to enjoy the scenery all the way as I wind down this =
little winter sojourn.

--Spur
http://www.spursjournal.com

------------------------------
This mobile message sent using PocketMail.
Sign up for unlimited e-mail at www.PocketMail.com.