[at-l] BFT trip report

[hudsom@us.ibm.com (Mark Hudson)]

"Intro" - Split work early on Wed. High heat and humidity factor. Four and
a half hours of driving, a stop at the Subway shop in Williamsport to pick
up dinner, and arrive at the trailhead about 6:15. Last minute
arrangements, and then down the trail to the first campsite along Slate
Run. Turns out to be occupied by a fellow and his three sons, but they tell
me of another campsite just across the stream where the trail crosses. One
quarter of a mile into a hike and I have to ford, but at least camp is
right on the other side. Curl up in the tent reading Colin Fletcher's
'River', with Slate Run providing the background music. Slept most of the
night in just the silk liner, still very warm.

July 4th: Planning an early start to beat the heat and humidity. Nature
calls at 5:15 am, a bit earlier than I planned on. Still, I'm awake, might
as well have breakfast. Eat, pack, and still have time for an early morning
wake-up skinnydip in Slate Run. The water is almost too warm. Hit the trail
at 6 am for a two mile climb to a ridge top. The humidity has already
pushed the comfort limit on the climb, but some of the humidity is laying
in the valley bottoms and I manage to climb out of it into blue skies and
sunshine. Hermit thrushes and ovenbirds calling, squirrels charging through
the brush, and mountain laurel still in bloom, though a bit past peak. Then
I have my will to make fast morning miles pinned to the mat... by ripe
blueberries <G>. I know if I slow down too much I'll pay for it in the heat
later, but I still manage to gather some handfuls on the way past. Long
winding ridge run, and a steep drop into another drainage. Seven miles to
morning break, about 9:30... next to a waterfall with a small swimming hole
under it <vbg>. Up another steamy ridge climb, and for the first time since
the AT I hit the "10 miles by 10 am" mark. More beautiful hiking, and a
winding trail down one of the branches of Young Woman Creek to another nice
campsite. No great swimming holes, but a spot deep enough to wash the sweat
off and kill some of the heat. The only people I've seen all day were some
horseback riders back near the road. Spent the afternoon with 'River'.

July 5th: A short but steep climb up out of the drainage, I managed to miss
a switchback at the top, something quite a few people seem to do since I
was following beaten trail. Yet more early morning hiking through mountain
laurel, birds calling.
Winding towards morning break in yet another drainage, I hear a chainsaw
near a forest road, turns out to be two guys clearing brush along the road.
Another steep climb to a really nice view down the Pine Creek Gorge. Begin
to drop into Naval Run, and a large bird glides out of a tree and silently
through the forest, either a hawk or an owl, but I didn't get a close
enough look to tell. As I turn to continue down the trail I find the first
whitetail of the trip gazing back at me from fifty feet down the trail. We
commune for a bit, and then the doe wanders off to the side to let me go
through. Down to camp alongside Naval Run. A father and his two teenage
sons pass through on their way to camp back up at the overlook, the only
other backpackers I see on the whole trip.

July 6th; a shorter day than the last two, only 11 or 12 miles to go. Same
glorious ridge runs, same pretty valleys. New voices in the morning chorus;
a hawk shrieking, a red-eyed vireo calling, and turkeys clucking. The
excitement for the day was atop the last ridge; hiking through partly
overgrown trail when suddenly there was a rattle. From full speed ahead to
three steps backward before I even had time to think. I did get some nice
pictures of a three foot timber rattler in the trail. Alas, I'm no purist,
I bushwhacked around that stretch of trail since the snake didn't seem to
be particularly interested in leaving.

Just some notes on the trail; if you're a map oriented Type A "Point A to
Point B" type person don't study the map too hard. The trail is a 42 mile
loop, but I'll bet you're never more than ten miles from the start. Lots of
wandering around. I do have to say that it's probably one of the nicest
three day hikes I've ever done.

skeeter