[at-l] tree ears uh goat ooh dave

[atfelix@hotmail.com (Felix McGillicuddy)]

Since it looks like I'm gonna be gone hikin', I thought I'd send you this 
today...lucky you, huh? This was from two years ago tomorrow...about 
something that happened three years ago today, or so it seems. 
Anyway...sorry about the lines and spacing and all that. Hope you 
enjoy...(Three years ago today I hiked over blood mtn. after dark at about 
8º) (60 years ago today my dad was born.)




Well, are ya ready for an update? It's been nearly ten days
since my
last 'year ago today'. I'll just give ya the highlights. (I
guess that
depends on the perspective):

A year ago the day after the last day I gave you a 'year ago
today' was
the day after Christmas. My sheltermates were sleeping in
their tents
inside Mt. Collins Shelter when I left between 8 and 9. It
was a crisp
18*. The sky was clear and the trees roared with high winds
dancing with
the branches. I made good time (too cold to stop) to
Clingman's Dome.
Climbing the tower was a very satisfying thing. The highest
point on the
Trail, one of my favorite places on Earth, another landmark
'accomplished' and what I thought an ominous song in my head
(John
Mellencamp's "Your Life is Now". It was the first time I'd
ever heard
the song, and thought it odd that John was telling me that,
perhaps,
this moment was what it had all been about. Wasn't it?) The
wind chill
on that cement top had to be below zero. I didn't spend much
time
hanging around. I headed back to the Trail with a nice
little adrenaline
rush. I kissed the sign. I always kiss that sign.

Once I got  to lower elevations, the winds died down and the
day was
beautiful. Mid to upper 20's with plenty of sunshine. My
favorite hiking
conditions. I stopped at Derrick Knob for a snack and found
a note from
my  friend Albatross (the same albatross that started
another hike a few
days ago). I had missed him by minutes somewhere along the
way. I hiked
on. It was a thoroughly enjoyable day. I was cruising along
and having
the best time of my life.

The sun was starting to set as I climbed Thunderhead. I
picked up the
pace a bit to see if I could get to the summit in time to
see any of it.
See it I did. As I hiked through the Rhododendron maze that
makes up the
summit of Thunderhead, I noticed the powder-blue sky was
clear and
beautiful. I had no idea what else there was. I got to the
pile of rocks
at summit-proper. I put my right foot on top of the pile and
balanced
myself with my ski poles. As I lift myself up, raising my
head above the
Rhododendrons, I was. That, I believe, was the defining
moment of my
life. That was, I believe, the most, and possibly the only,
religious
moment of my life. It was, without doubt, the most
incredible single
moment of my life. I said "Yes!" I said it again.

I enjoyed things from the pile of rocks for but a few
minutes. When I
stepped off that pile of rocks, I was invincible. I hiked
away from that
pile of rocks feeling like my feet were inches off the
ground. What an
emotional high. I got to Spence Field S. with the plan of
stopping if
someone else was there. It was still light enough to see the
new
bear-bag cables as approached the shelter. No people, no
firewood, no
Felix. As I got back to the AT, as I was making my first
steps south,
toward Russell Field, "Got You Where I Want You" (the song
of the hike)
began. "Yes", I said again. I got to Russell Field feeling
good. I took
my pack off and ate some M&M's while getting things ready
for the night.
"Yo! Felix!" I said to my ownself. "What are you doing? You
don't want
to stop. Hike on. " And, I did. Hiking after dark in the
Smokys, running
on adrenaline and emotion, is an incredible thing.
Incredible, indeed.
When I laid down at Mollies Ridge, at 9:30, I was still
wound up. I'd
love to read my register entry for that day. The best day of
my life. A
day I saw no other human.

I hiked to the Fontana Dam the next day. I hitched a ride to
the motel
with a guy who was stoned. The ride would have been scary
enough without
the added element of drugs in the veins. I made it. It was
Sunday and I
wanted to watch NFL football and take a shower. The black
and white
Philco wouldn't pick up anything, so I took showers. Lots of
showers.
Showers became my hobby.

When the guy that runs the motel dropped me off at the Trail
the next
day, it started sprinkling. It soon began pouring, and did
the rest of
the day. 'twas a miserable day. Ask the group of young boys
that were
there with their fathers. I passed them, about 12 in all, in
little
groups. They weren't having much fun. I hiked on to Stecoah
Gap. I was
very pleased as I began to cross the highway, rain still
falling, to see
a large, hairy man emerge from a small, steamy car. 'twas my
good buddy
Pittsburgh there to see me, and take me to more showers.
(Seperate
showers, mind ya.) After hiking all day with cold water
pounding me, I
couldn't wait to spend a few minutes with hot water pounding
me.

The next day was drizzly, overcast, chilly and uneventful.
It was
Tuesday. I called my mom from NOC. It's always good to talk
to your mom.
I took a break at Morgan Shelter and it was dark when I left
there for
Wesser Bald Shelter. Somewhere in between, it started to
snow. Temps
were dropping and it was unpleasant. After I got to the
shelter, I
walked around in the wind-blown snow, looking for a
non-existent privy.
No, I would not have looked had I known it didn't exist. It
got very
cold that night. Cold and windy. My sleeping bag had snow on
it the next
morning.

I made good time to Cold Spring Shelter. Again, it was too
cold to stop
anywhere. It was 15 degrees at the shelter, according to one
of the
college students that were taking up far more than their
share of the
room. I ate a quick snack on the table next to the shelter,
and was on
my way. It didn't snow or rain any on this day, but it never
did get
above 20*.  I ate lunch inside the restroom at Wayah Bald.
(Hey, I was
'resting' in the 'rest'room. Alright?) There were lots of
dayhikers out
on this day. As I neared Winding Stair Gap, I made a deal
with myself
that if somebody was at the parking lot and they offered me
a ride, I'd
take it. I was thinking it was time for another series of
showers.
Before I even got to the road, a woman offered me a night at
her house.
(Well, her husbandido was standing there, too). "Do you have
a
shower?"...

This is where I met the guy I named 'Tank'. Tommy could have
Tuckerized
his pack. All I shall say is he had 13 MREs with him. He was
the nephew
of the people who had given me the ride and place to stay.
The next day,
New Year's Eve, they dropped me off at Winding Stair Gap,
and dropped
Tank off on Springer. It was well past dark when I got to
Carter Gap
Shelter. There was a Marine on leave there. He had a great
fire going. I
stopped for a snack and warmed myself by the fire. He was
amazed when I
put my snack bag away and strapped my pack on. "Where you
going?" I told
him I had to get to the next shelter. "That's 7 miles."
"Yeah, I know.
Happy New Year to ya." I said as I walked away.

I had a blast hiking up Standing Indian Mountain. It was a
beautiful
night and I was listening to a great college football game.
(The folks
who put me up the night before were at this game in Atlanta.
I don't
remember who played.) It was about 10 when I got in bed for
the last
time. I woke up at 11:30 to a group of flashlights shining
in the
shelter at me. When they saw me, they turned and left. I
never saw them
again. I'm guessing it was a group going up to the summit
for the New
Year's countdown. This was the first New Year's that I was
asleep at
Midnight since the early 70's. I didn't mind. Btw, it was
cold and there
was snow on the ground.

New Year's Day was damp and chilly. Not raining. Not cold.
Just damp and
chilly. I met two guys at Plumorchard Gap. We were talking
about
football for some reason.  I said "Hey, did Boomer
(Esiaison) say 'No
shit' on the Monday night game?" One of the guys said "See,
I told you"
to the other. Pittsburgh and I had watched the Monday night
game
together and I was sure that he had said it. I got to Dick's
Creek Gap
in mid-afternoon. I was trying to hitch to Hiawassee when a
guy in a
truck pulled over. I was just about to the truck when he
drove away. The
back of his head is hopefully still burning from the stare I
gave him as
he pulled away. I got a ride and checked in at the
jacuzzi-roomed
Holiday Inn Express. A hot soak and steak dinner later, my
buddy
Pittsburgh was there for more football watching.

The next day was horrible. It was raining or sleeting most
of the day. I
had to get on my hands and knees and crawl across the summit
of some
rocky mountain (Kelly Knob, maybe). I believe I was in
Sassafras Gap
when I took this picture
(http://Felixhikes.tripod.com/AT/frozface.jpg)
My eyelashes were covered in ice.  I trudged on in the muck.
I got to
Unicoi and was glad to find my buddy Pittsburgh there. I
wasn't certain
he would be there. We went to Helen for more showers and
pizza.

The next day was just cold and no rain. I cruised along
pretty good.  I
stopped at Blue Mt. Shelter and talked to three kids from
Alabama. I
said "Ain't 'Got You Where I Want You' a great song?" One of
the kids
said "Hey, I saw them in concert New Year's Eve." I thought
that was
cool. The more we talked, the more I found out about them. I
actually
have met their grandmother. she lives in Bloomington. Small
world, of
course.

I hiked on. When I got to Hogpen Gap parking lot, a man
there asked me
if I was 'going camping'. I said "Yup. Couple more days
anyway." The
Trail was covered in chunks of ice for several miles through
this
stretch. As I neared the top of Cowrock Mt., I met a girl
that was
planning a northbound thru-hike for '99. She mentioned that
she was on
an e-mail list. I was trying to figure out what list, as she
said it
wasn't Wingfoot's. I said "Does the name 'Ryan Brooks' sound
familiar?"
"No." "How 'bout Milt Webb?" "No." "Hmmm, how 'bout Felix?"
"Yeah, I
know Felix!!!" I grinned. Shortly after that I had this
picture taken on
Cowrock Mtn (http://Felixhikes.tripod.com/AT/cowrock.jpg) It
was about
5:05 when I got to Neel's Gap. The store was closed. I
looked in and
somebody came over and opened the door. There were three
people inside
counting money and prepping the store for closing. They let
me warm up
and drink coffee. It was FREEZING out. They gave me a can of
pop. I
started up Blood Mt. right at dusk. There were people, and
fires, all
over the rocky summit of Blood Mt. I was listening to the
Packers/Niners
game and the radio and didn't even stop at the shelter. Did
I mention
that it was cold?

I got to the shelter turn-off for Woodshole. I almost passed
it because
there wasn't a sign for southbounders >:-|   I walked for
what seemed
like miles down the blue-blaze. I stopped two times and
nearly turned
around.  When I got to the shelter, I was amazed to find two
other
bodies inside. One was awake. We talked a bit as I was
setting up for
the night. Did I mention it was freezing? I asked if they
were just out
for the weekend. The guy I was talking to said "Naaah. We're
thruhikers." "Northbounders?" I asked. "No."  "Who the hell
are you?" I
asked, thinking that all the southbounders ahead of me were
long gone.
"I'm QP. That's Windbraker."  "No F***ing way. I've been
following you
guys for 5 months." We had a nice chat that night. I felt
like they were
my long-lost brothers. (I knew that they weren't, however,
because my
long-lost brothers are both in prison) It got down to 5* or
less that
night. 5* is cold.  That, my friends, brings us to a year
ago today.

A year ago this morning brought me the most excruciating
pain of the 5
month journey. I had left my boots out over night. They were
frozen.
They were frozen. It took 12 minutes to put them on. Then,
there was the
trip to the privy (stainless-steel-seated privy). It was
about 16
minutes of physical inactivity. My feet were frozen. It took
over an
hour to get the circulation going enough to warm my feet
again. They
hurt so bad that my stomach hurt. Somewhere in that first
mile and a
half, I passed Tank. He was definitely struggling. He said
that I was
right about a lot of the weight he was carrying. I told him
to make it
to Neel's and have Jeff go through it. I hiked most of the
day
leapfrogging with QP and WB. I liked them and liked having
someone
around for a change. Especially someone who was excited
about the same
thing that I was excited about. We spent the night, a year
ago tonight,
together at a fridged Blue Mt. Shelter. Again, it was 5* or
less. This
time, my boots were in my bag. (Footnote: QP's pee bottle
from Woodshole
S. froze and he had to carry a bottle of frozen urine all
day. We
laffed. Well, not QP) Something I shant forget about that
night at Blue
Mt. is this: The Tennessee Volunteers were playing for the
national
championship. QP and WB are from the Knoxville area. The
both had
walkmans and were listening to the game. QP's radio wouldn't
pick it up.
So, WB broke his headphones and gave one earpiece to QP.
They snuggled
up together and cheered as I slept, dreaming of the next
day...

Was this long enuff? I could add more...



_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.