[at-l] White Mountain Traverse Part 8

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Sunday 7/23/00  Pinkham Notch AMC Head Quarters

It rained off and on all night.  Very foggy and strong winds at sunup caused 
us to sleep until 6:05 AM.  After hot oatmeal and repacking wet gear we 
headed up the Israel Trail at 7:00 AM.  We walked slowly to conserve energy 
and avoided overheating - since we were wearing our rain gear and long pants. 
 We reached Thunder Junction - 5490 foot intersection of Lowe’s Path and 
Gulfside Trail in the saddle between Mt Adams and Mt Sam Adams.  We continued 
in very strong winds above tree line around the west side of J.Q. Adams Mt. 
heading for Madison Springs Hut.        We only saw 2 people heading south 
and three heading north as we walked across this alpine zone.  The N orth 
Bounders were carrying only day packs in this ferocious weather.  Despite the 
fact that it was not raining, we got soaked as we dropped down into the scrub 
spruce before we reached Madison Springs. It was 11:00 AM as we reached the 
hut where a member of the Croo was taking a weather reading for a mid day 
report.  The temperature was 37 degrees.  No wonder my hands felt so cold.  
    We took a break to get some food and use the restroom.  Having now heat 
in the Huts, the few guests were complaining.  But it was much warmer than 
outside.  We scanned the maps to see if it would be wise to use and alternate 
route down the mountain.  The Osgood Ridge Trail (AT) goes over the summit of 
Mt Madison then follows a long ridge above tree line before entering the 
Great Gulf.  We decided that the Madison Gulf Trail was shorter in distance 
and mostly below tree line therefore, a safer route.  Big mistake.  It is a 
safer route in winter.  But it was extremely steep and very slippery from the 
rain and condensing moisture.  There were constant drop off and ledges with 
very few level sections.  Much of the trail was in flowing water from the 
nights rain.  Water flowed into my boots as I tried to scramble backwards 
down some steep sections.  Neither of us fell or even came close to falling 
but there were places where I reverted to sliding on my butt to make it over 
some obstacle.  It took us over 3 hours to climb down the 2 mile section of 
trail before it hit the bottom of the Head wall.  From this point the hike 
was still tough but only because of mud and roots and frequent crossings of 
streams.  It was an exhausting descent.  John commented that he had never 
felt so tired in his life - not even after a marathon.  My feet and knees 
were screaming from the constant pounding.  Winter must stay in the Great 
Gulf for a longer time, because we saw blooming pink Lady Slippers beside the 
trail today.  
    We began to run into hikers heading up the trail.  We warmed them of the 
weather and difficulties of the trail but no one turned back.  Two guys with 
a dog assured us that the dog could make it and claimed that he had done it 
before in the winter.  I suspect this trail may be easier in the winter when 
you can use crampons and axes.  
    Near the intersection of Osgood Ridge Trail (AT) and Madison Gulf Trail 
is a narrow suspension bridge.  We stopped for a break.  I removed my boots 
and soaked my feet in the cold water.  We dried our socks by pounding them on 
the rocks.  John offered to take pictures of a family that was crossing the 
bridge from our viewpoint below the bridge.  We refilled our water bottles 
before continuing along the remaining 4 miles to Pinkham Notch.  We finally 
reached AMC Head Quarters at 6:00 PM, exhausted and sore we walked to John’s 
car to fetch our spare clothing then headed for the showers in the 
information building.  It cost $1.00 for three minutes of hot water.  But it 
felt so good to get rid of the sweat and dirt from the 8 days of hiking.  
Another great summer hike on the AT.
 
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Cc:            at-l@backcountry.net
From:          Tom Fort <tjfort@netdoor.com>
Reply-to:      tjfort@netdoor.com
Date:          Mon, 14 Aug 2000 17:06:24 -0500
Subject:       [at-l] Northern lights.  (not TR)
Content-type:  text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I realize this is not trail related, but, it is outdoors related.  I
know a lot of hikers are interested in spectacular nature photos, so I
figured this was safe.  I got this from my Nasa list, just now.  the
meteor show this past weekend was accompanied by one of the many
geomagnetic storms we've had lately.  this link has some neat photos
of the event.  

Wish I could have been out there somewhere watching this!

enjoy, 

t.

http://spacescience.com/headlines/y2000/ast14aug_1.htm?list
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