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[pct-l] From The VVR at Edison Lake
There are times in a very long journey along the Pacific Crest Trail
when the magic wears thin. A snowy trail feels too arduous, a backpack
too heavy, a stream too frigid. And someone tells you about a respite
near the trail where people are waiting to receive you with fresh baked
pie and a free beer. Itís the kind of lure that pulled me and my trail
partner along through the sun cups and post-holing this last week from
the little town of Independence where we had last gone out to resupply.
Weíd heard about Vermilion Valley Resort and we were soon going to be
It has been nearly three weeks of trudging through snow. It is an
awesomely beautiful and austere trek in which we havehad the snowed-in
Sierras nearly to ourselves. Every once in awhile we see the trail at
elevations lower than 9,000 feet. But more often than not, we have been
walking through high snowdrifts and sinking and slipping our way through
late afternoons of white covered ground. The river fords have been swift
and icy. Our feet have been wet 95 percent of the time.
But we made it here the other day, sat down for a drink, settled into a
backpacker tent cabin and began to meet the people who make this place
hum. It was going to be a two-day layover.
The owner, Butch Wiggs and his wife Peggy donít let you quit at his
place, but they do make it easy to stay as long as you like. Mostly
they want to seat you beside the nightly campfires with staff,
fishermen, and regulars to talk about the trail and about the journeys
that bring you to the trailhead. So we talked and listened to Tiny, the
singing cowboy cook, serenade us with ballads, and Stoney, the retired
rodeo master tell about a life of horses and cowboys. And we began to
feel at home here while we recuperated.
After four days, weíre taking the ferry across Edison Lake this morning.
It feels like there will be some serious goodbyes to make. The spirit of
the trail is full steam ahead again -- as if a few suncups could daunt
us. There are only a handful of PCT thru-hikers ahead of us at this
point but Iím sure there will be many soon behind us as the snow melts.
Happy trekking to all of those with the PCT spirit. It has touched this
hikerís life deeply.
of Santa Cruz, Calif.
July 12, 1998
Hello, My name is Mark and Iíam the partner Jennifer
spoke of.Having just read what she said of this wonderfull place there
is nothing much really I could add. Just good,generous, honest
folks.And, a great place to rest your tired bones.
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