[pct-l] PCT Detour near Glacier Peak--Current Conditions

[griffin at u.washington.edu (Tom Griffin)]

I just got back from a 10-day trip from Stevens Pass to Stehekin along the 
PCT and the infamous detour. Our party met only three thru hikers (Scotland 
and Dave & Michelle). If you know any northbounders coming to the detour 
soon, here are the conditions as of Sept.6.

Overall, the detour is well marked and there are signs of recent trail work. 
The worst sections of the detour are brushy stretches of the Indian Creek 
trail and the notorious section from Little Giant Pass to the Chiwawa River 
ford.

Indian Creek Trail

The trail stays away from the creek, so there is not much water available. 
There are two streams right after the detour leaves the PCT--get water 
there. The next water is about five miles later. There are only two 
campsites along this trail. One is about 1 1/2 miles after leaving the PCT, 
the other is about 4 miles farther. The trail goes through open landscapes 
where there is lots of brush.

White River Ford

There are campsites where the trail's bridge crosses Indian Creek. You can 
cut four miles of hiking by fording the White River where Indian Creek flows 
into the river. Even better, there are two logs that span the White River 
just below the confluence with Indian Creek. Here are directions for 
northbound and southbound hikers to find the logs.

Northbound: Cross Indian Creek on the bridge. On the left is a campsite. 
After the campsite, turn left off the trail and follow the direction of 
Indian Creek as it flows into the White River. There is a faint boot track 
about 10-20 feet from the creek's bank. Walking along you will discover a 
HUGE cedar and a hidden campsite. Go to the left of the cedar and down to 
the banks of the creek. You will see White River and the log crossing. We 
took the log with the branches sticking up--they provide convenient 
hand-holds. After you cross White River, DO NOT go in the direction of the 
log bridges. Instead, as soon as you pass some riverside brush, turn RIGHT 
and follow the White River downstream about 300 feet. Because of brush along 
the banks, you will have to hike about 10-15 feet away from the river. As 
you walk, look for a huge fallen cedar on the left that has twisted itself 
into an arch. Turn left (away from the river) and hike past that cedar. You 
will go uphill. Look for two freshly sawn logs stacked side-by-side. They 
are on the side of the White River trail.

Southbound: Coming down from Boulder Pass you have a junction with the White 
River trail. About two miles after the junction, you will start to see the 
river on your right. Look for a large boulder on the left of the trail and 
two freshly sawn logs on the right of the trail, next to a pile of brush. 
Turn right and walk toward the river. You will pass a huge fallen cedar that 
has twisted itself into an arch. When you get to the river, the logs that 
span the river are on the right. After crossing, turn RIGHT and follow the 
White River bank to the confluence with Indian Creek. (Ignore other paths 
you see on the river bank before this spot.) Turn into the woods and find a 
large cedar with a hidden camp. Follow a boot track that parallels Indian 
Creek. In about 100 feet you will come to the trail.

Boulder Pass

It's a killer. You have a 3,800-foot elevation gain in six miles. It is hot 
along the second half, but there is water in some places and even some 
shade. There is one campsite near the crossing of Boulder Creek and several 
at the pass. There is also water on the way down to the Napeequa, but no 
campsites.

Napeequa Ford

There is one campsite in the woods about 300 feet before the ford going 
northbound. There are several riverside camps a half-mile after the ford on 
your way to Little Giant Pass. We camped just before the ford and crossed in 
the morning. The ford was relatively easy and the water, though cold, only 
came up to mid-thigh (I am 5 foot 8). We crossed right at the trail 
crossing. There is a lot of brush along both sides of the Napeequa River, so 
it wasn't easy to scout any other possible fording sites.

Little Giant Pass

It's a 2,000-foot elevation gain in 3.3 miles--but the first mile is along 
the river. The trail up to the pass is relatively decent, but there are 
steep stretches and narrow trail with dropoffs. There are small springs and 
creeks up the first half of trail to the pass. At the pass be sure to take 
some pictures of the Napeequa Valley. Going down Little Giant toward the 
Chiwawa River, the trail at times is in terrible shape. Instead of 
switchbacks, there are several chutes that require great care as you go 
downhill. There are long sections of wicked brush and one stretch over a 
rockface that is tricky, though marked with cairns. Once you cross Little 
Giant Creek, the trail is in much better condition with gentle switchbacks 
taking you down to the Chiwawa River.

Chiwawa River ford

Not much to say because the river is running very low at this point. Thanks 
to a few logs tossed across the main channel, I didn't even get my feet wet.

Road Walk to Trinity

It was Friday of Labor Day weekend, yet we hardly saw a car. We camped at 
the Alpine Meadows campground and there was only one other party. These 
great people let us buy some beer from them and then came over the next 
morning with fresh cinnamon buns and cantaloupe.
Buck Creek Trail

It feels like you are back on the PCT! Great trail conditions and a fabulous 
destination in Buck Creek Pass, where there are to-die-for views of Glacier 
Peak and the surrounding ridges. Don't be surprised to see lots of campers 
at the pass--this is a very popular place.

High Pass Alternate

We did not take the High Pass alternate route but met some southbounders who 
did. One member of our party had taken High Pass several years ago. Because 
of the conditions of the Little Giant trail between the pass and the Chiwawa 
River, I would probably take the High Pass alternate if I was hiking 
southbound and if there was no new snow. Our friend who had been over High 
Pass said he needed crampons in early October. For northbound hikers, I 
would stick to the regular detour over Little Giant because the worst part 
of that trail is downhill and easier to negotiate. I would never want to 
hike that stretch going uphill.

Road walk versus detour

The PCT detour takes you through some extraordinary landscapes and very wild 
stretches in Washington State. But the trail conditions are not up to  PCT 
standards and you can't expect to make the same mileage. If you a coming in 
late September and you are determined to finish the trail this year, you may 
want to take the boring road walk along Highway 2 and then up Road 6200 to 
Trinity instead.

I will post a URL for a full trip report in a few days.

Tom Griffin
Seattle
PCT Pages: http://staff.washington.edu/griffin/pct.html