[pct-l] ice axe length

[mgeis@xxxxxxxxx (Matt Geis)]

Now here's an interesting discussion.  Short or long?

I can only offer my experience as a mountaineer (I was
climbing long before I ever considered a thru-hike).

The summary of this post: short axes, bad idea.
Monte's suggested axe length, too long for me or for
effective use in my opinion.  Most importantly, learn
to use the axe, as the pct list is not the best place
to get well thought out answers to questions around
the area of axes and arresting. (check out "Freedom of
the Hills" for better info than I've seen anybody,
myself included, on this list offer).

For more of my rant, read on...

(and now for my meandering thoughts... :)  )

Generally speaking, if you're looking for something
that would help you to self-arrest, a shorter axe is
better.  That's a relative term, however.  For me (5'
11") I use a 65cm axe.  So to qualify that statement,
hand to ground (as recommended by Monte) would be too
long -- however, aiming for something super-short to
cut weight is an even worse idea.  I'd recommend
something that goes to about the ankle when holding it
straight down from the head.

Hikers often confuse ice axes with ice tools.  My axe
is 65cm, but my ice tool (which is also an axe) is
significantly shorter -- for climbing pitches angled
at 45 degrees or more.  Very cool looking, but
inappropriate for the PCT.

When you're using an axe (i.e., when you have it out,
on a slope that merits its use), correct use would
have it on the uphill side.  An earlier post
recommended the downhill side.  I guess that like
anything in the world, it's a matter of personal
preference, but I've *never* met an experienced
mountaineer who carries his or her axe on the downhill
side.

If you have a long axe, you'll find it unwieldy when
using it on the uphill side of the route.  That's the
very reason for using a shorter axe.  With all due
respect to Monte, your axe probably won't be dangling
uselessly on a downhill if you use it properly (hold
it on the uphill side of the slope -- if it still
dangles above the ground, the incline isn't so steep
that you need to worry about it).

Keep in mind that the axe is a safety tool, not a
walking stick.  Many, many people make this mistake
when estimating what length axe they need.

My recommendation is to try self-arresting.  When
arresting, the head of the axe should be just above
the shoulder, and the spike right about at the hip,
with the shaft crossing the body diagonally.  This
allows the climber to put the best leverage upward on
the shaft when driving the pick into the hice.  A
longer axe would prevent this.  Too short an axe (as
one hiker's "ice hammer" -- an axe with a shortened
shaft -- last year proved) would render the axe
totally useless in a fall.

Use whatever length allow you to best perform a
self-arrest.

Many people on the list have their peeves (bears,
poison oak, filtering water...).  This happens to be
mine.  I can't stress enough how many people I saw
with axes who had no idea how to use them!  Dozens of
hikers were excited to get to Kennedy Meadows and pick
up their axes, simply because it made their gear look
all the more fierce and cool.  Some folks were sure
that nobody would need an axe that year -- others were
sure we'd need them constantly.  Depending on you
location, the time of day, and the amount of personal
risk the hiker was willing to assume, the need for an
axe varied.

What's the point to all this?  I don't feel that the
pct list is really the best place to get advice on how
to choose, let alone use, an axe.  Take a course or
get out and practice with a partner.  It'll answer
your questions about what axe to buy, and will put you
ahead of 95% of your PCT classmates in how safely
you'll be able to cross the Sierras.

I hope this hasn't started a war (particularly not a
war of axes!!).  Just trying to offer some other
points from a fairly experienced perspective, as well
as encourage people to seek out some solid knowledge.

Iron Chef

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