[pct-l] Self Arrests

[CMountainDave@aol.com (CMountainDave@aol.com)]

There really is no substitute for practice in a class on snow. It was a 
requirement for credit inthe mountaineering class I helped out with in 
Bremerton. I wish I could show you how via e-mail but I just can't. But 
here's some advise. Hang on with your thumb under the adze ( the ice choping 
part of the ax) and fingers over the top of the ax. The adze should be on the 
thumb side of the hand, the pick on the pinky side. Your first instinct when 
you slip will be to grab the shaft with your other hand. (the ax should be on 
the uphill side when traversing) 8 times out of ten just grabbing the ax with 
your free hand will suffice to arrest your fall.  If that fails, shove the 
pick into the snow hang on with an iron grip and hopefully you will drag to a 
stop within a few feet. Aggresively kicking into the snow with your feet at 
the same time also helps to stop you. Try to traverse  snow at a slightly up  
or down angle. Going straight down is the most dangerous because if you slip 
you are likely to pick up speed before you can get on your stomach and into 
the self arrest position. Picking up speed greatly complicates the process. 
If it's real icy( usually early in the day before the sun has a chance to 
soften the snow) you should be wearing instep crampons and may need to chop 
out small platforms to put your feet in as you traverse. Real soft post 
holing snow is almost never a problem. Most of the time you can't even 
glissade it, let alone lose control. Most of all, try to put your fear into a 
box and put it away while traversing and never lean into the snow. Try to 
stand in a true vertical position at all times . Try and find that place 
between being cavelier and over adrenelated from fear. Over confidence will 
bring about the mountain's wrath but so will under confidence. A mutal 
respect is what you seek. And remember to tell the mountain how pretty she 
is. After all that is your purpose for being there to her because only humans 
can give her the concept of her beauty via their thoughts. I honestly believe 
that flattery and respect go along way towards safe passage.
      Try and find the Mountaineer's book "Freedom of the Hills" at your 
library or sporting goods store. They have a chapter devoted to snow travel 
and have a good series of self arrest pictures