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Re: [at-l] Climbing Katahdin



     Wow! Like so many outrageous feats, this is told so matter-of-factly 
     that it demands a couple of rereads just to make sure it all soaked 
     in. Baxter Peak to Chimney Pond in 3 hours? That sounds heroic by 
     itself; certainly makes me question any rights to claim "downHILL" as 
     an apt trail name. About the only thing that I didn't have to read 
     twice was the "slept for 24 hours" part. I'm gonna be awed by this all 
     day....Hope he finds another K2-er; they'd share something 
     extraordinary. Wow!


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: [at-l] Climbing Katahdin
Author:  "Ern Grover" <ern@cybertours.com> at ima
Date:    10/26/98 6:41 PM


This article originally appeared in the Weirs Times, 
Thursday, December 18, 1997
     
Climbing Katahdin: Twice in One Day? (By Philip I. 
Hershberg, Waterville Valley, NH)
     
It all happened way back in August 1956. I'm 62 now, after 
many years of climbing peaks in the Whites, Greens, 
Adirondacks, Colorado, Wyoming, California, Washington, 
Switzerland, Austria, Italy: You get the picture! I moved to 
Waterville Valley to be surrounded by those 4,000 footers: 
Tecumseh, Oseola and the Tripyramids.
     
Well, anyway, in August 1956, while a member of the 
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute outing club, we college 
climbers had a get-together at Baxter State Park in Maine. 
We pitched our tents at the Chimney Pond Campground, located 
at tat time about 5 miles from the nearest road.
     
The next morning, four of us, including three from 
Rensselaer, namely Ira Schnall, some fellow whom I can't 
recall and myself, together with a fourth young man from, I 
believe an Ivy League school, decided to climb Mt. Katahdin 
via the chimney route. This Ivy Leaguer was a fellow, whom 
according to Bert Raphael who was at Chimney Pond at the 
time but who did not join this climbing party went by the 
name of "George Langer" or something closely allied to this.
     
In any event, the four of us arose early one morning and by 
6:00 a.m. had begun the chimney climb, which, as best as I 
can recall, involved about 3,000 feet, almost straight up to 
the Katahdin summit, which at 5,268 feet, I'll call a mile 
high, in any event the highest point in the state of Maine.
     
We made fairly good progress and, by about 1:00 p.m., were 
only a couple of hundred feet below the summit ridge. At 
this point, George Langer was reaching up for a hand-hold 
and the climber immediately above him dislodged a rather 
large rock, which struck George on his arm and also on his 
leg. Although we did not know it at the time, because of his 
injuries, George apparently went rapidly into a state of 
clinical shock and because of this and the severity of his 
injuries, was totally unable to move.
     
The other two fellows on the rope were, at the time, 
cigarette smokers and were quite exhausted from the climb. I 
was therefore elected to somehow get myself up the last few 
hundred feet of the route, climb down the knife-edge back to 
the Chimney Pond Campground and somehow obtain the necessary 
help to the bring George back down from the mountain. 
Luckily, I did know that there was a ranger at the 
Campground and that he did have a litter-basket (i.e. a kind 
of portable stretcher).
     
In any event, I did manage to get to the summit ridge by 
about 2:30 p.m. and, moving as rapidly as I could, got down 
to the Chimney Pond Campground at about 5:30 p.m. 
Fortunately, there were a number of strong college youths, 
as well as the Ranger, at the campground. After getting a 
bite to eat, we took our flashlights, some blankets and the 
litter basket and started to climb up the knife-edge route 
to the summit, leaving the campground at about 6:30 p.m. 
Because of the onset of darkness, it took us until about 
11:00 p.m. to reach the summit ridge.
     
Once on this ridge -- which in spots is quite narrow, 
leading to the "knife-edge" term -- we were eventually able, 
in the dim aura of our flashlights, to make out my climbing 
group, who had somehow managed to life George up the last 
few hundred feet to the knife-edge.
     
Our "rescue" party then surveyed the situation. At this 
point in time, George really looked quite lethargic and very 
pale. Nevertheless, we had no choice but to lift him into 
the litter-basket at just about midnight and to slowly begin 
to lower him down the knife-edge. Fortunately, there were at 
this point about six climbers in our rescue group, together 
with the other two original climbers, so that the eight of 
us were sufficient to carry the litter-basket and, at some 
very steep points in our descent, prevent it from sliding 
away from us and down the slope. In any event, we had to 
take great care because of the precarious angle at which we 
often carried the litter-basket.
     
Slowly and carefully, we continued down the mountain, 
reaching the tree line at about 3:00 a.m. At this point, the 
trail became less steep and the trees, which surrounded the 
trail, made us somewhat less concerned that our "cargo" 
might slide away on us. Eventually, we were able to reach 
the Chimney Pond Campground at about 7:0-0 a.m.
     
Fortunately, there was a Harvard Medical School student at 
the campground adjacent to the ranger cabin and he 
recognized that George was in a state of clinical shock. He 
then began to treat him by covering him with more blankets 
and giving him some warm fluids to drink. Bert Raphael, 
another Rensselaer Polytechnic student who had arrived at 
the campground the previous day -- after we had already 
departed for the summit at about 6:00 a.m. told me that he 
was able to follow our progress in lowering George down the 
mountain. He did this by following the tiny points of light 
emitted by our flashlights.
     
Once George reached the campground, a number of other 
college students who were also camped there carried George 
out the approximately five miles to the road, from which 
point, he was transported to the nearest hospital. In any 
event, I understood that George survived, because he was 
seen the next year by one of my friends at an outing club 
get-together at Lake George, New York. He was reported to be 
walking with a bit of a limp, however.
     
Well, as a result of this accident, having climbed and 
descended Mt. Katahdin twice over a period of just about 24 
hours. I was - needless-to-say -- quite exhausted. Some girls 
at the base camp gave me a couple of bowls of soup, which I 
ravenously gulped down. I then got into my tent and into my 
sleeping bag and slept from about 8:00 a.m. that day until 
just about 8:00 a.m. the next morning -- the only time in my 
life that I have slept 24 hours around-the-clock.
     
Since that time in late August 956, I've told this story at 
countless gathering of climbers in the Eastern United States 
as well as elsewhere. Each time, I told those listening that 
I had climbed Mt. Katahdin twice in the same day and was 
looking for some other climber who had also accomplished 
this same feat. Needless-to-say, even though I'm certain 
that other individual have also done the same climb, I have 
not to this day -- found a single other climber who has done 
so.
     
I'd very much appreciate learning of any such individuals. 
You can reach me c/o P.O. Box 352, Waterville Valley, NH 
03215.
     
     
"Sweeter Rain" a.k.a. Ern Grover
ICQ: 922536 / AOL: MaineMan47
Website: http://www.cybertours.com/~ern/
     
     
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