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[at-l] tour de mt blanc



I did the Tour in 1979. Highly recommended. 
I did it in September (early). After the 20th the Alpine Tourist
Season closes down (for good reasons!).
I spent 7 days on the trail (but should have been 8).

2 days in Chamonix, doing day hikes for conditioning. Day 1 to Mer de Glace,
Day 2 to Brevent.

Day 1 of hike. Up towards Brevent, down to valley up to Col de Voyse (??
sorry, haven't got the map here). Camped just below Col.
Day 2. Down into Contamines Valley. Camped near head of valley before 
trail starts to climb. Food available in Les Contamines.
Day 3. Up over pass and down to Refuge Les Mottets. Small tongues
of snow to cross (nothing serious). Stayed in Alpine
Hut. Very friendly people. Sleep in long converted (clean) cow barn.  
Day 4. Into Italy. Took high route towards Courmayeur rather than descend
into glacial valley. Camped high with great view of Miage (I think).
Day 5. Down into Courmayeur. People pretty relaxed about accepting French
coins, notes etc. Don't forget to get a good wash before entering town.
Kind of embarassing to enter shops in trail condition. Climbed late in
afternoon and camped high.
Day 6. Down then up over pass into Switzerland. Descent past old 
villages really interesting. Swiss hiking times on signposts are very macho.
French and Italian timings are more realistic. Limited camping options
here. I found an old hut foundation just off trail and stealth camped.
Day 7. Shopped for food in Champex then up over border into France. 
Great views at Col. Down to Argentieres. Should have stopped here, but got
"finish it" fever. Climb up towards Brevent again. Iron ropes in 1 section 
make large backpack seem pretty unwieldy. Pushed on right down to
Chamonix and campsite for hot shower, too late to cook. Just snacked 
and turned in.

If I did it again, I think I'd do it slower, but my problem was mostly 
inexperience and lack of food. I just lived on cheese, sausages and cans
I could pick up in village and town shops. I even carried a litre of wine
up one of the cols (don't do that!). Never used my passport, never saw
a border guard. 

I used a lightweight 1 man tent and a camping gas stove. Night temps 
were comfortably above 40's. Days were hot and dry. Passes tended to be 
crowded with day-hikers but lots of isolated areas.

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