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[at-l] Into The Void
- Subject: [at-l] Into The Void
- From: RoksnRoots at aol.com (RoksnRoots@aol.com)
- Date: Fri Jul 9 02:02:12 2004
Hellish experience by those climbers. I'm sure all the foolish moves
have been covered by someone else already, but a few were obvious:
Never climb a remote and extreme mountain with less than 3
people.
Simple point of no return mistake. If they had too little gas for
the extra time needed to climb the Andean powder snow at the summit then they
needed to turn around. This literally caused the accident because they would
have snow-caved that night and waited for light the next morning to proceed.
Because they had no stove gas they thought they needed to keep going in the
dark and didn't see the cliff.
Not being a mountain climber I could be wrong, however couldn't
it have been possible for Simon to clamp the lower section of rope just before
the belay device with some kind of climbing equipment. From there he could
have cut the rope on the upper side of the belay. With this cut upper section he
could have tied on to the lower section beneath the clamp. Bracing this new
union with an improvised carabiner belay he could have then cut the knot in the
belay freeing the rope and lowering it down for the rest of its length?
I suppose this would have been a lot to ask of an exhausted,
freezing, and slipping climber in an emergency. Also, Simon must not have known
how much distance lay beneath. He could have ended up succeeding with the new
splice only to end up in the same situation with no rope.
The guy with the broken leg was a tough b&%tard...
My final analysis says they panicked under pressure and tried a
foolhardy night descent. Since Simon survived just fine that night and made it
down, they both could have.
They should have snow-caved...