[at-l] Last-minute gear questions

[m_factor at hotmail.com (Mara Factor)]

Hi Melissa,

Lot's of good questions below.  I'm sure you'll find a bit of overlap in my 
answers with the other you've received.  See below...

Mara
Stitches, AT99

http://friends.backcountry.net/m_factor


>From: MedusaJ@aol.com
>Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 12:01:27 -0500
>
>1.  Rain gear.

In the relatively humid east, I find the waterproof breathables (especially 
the expensive ones) to be mostly ineffective.  They work based on the 
differences in humidity inside your clothing vs outside.  That being said, 
they will keep you a bit drier than cheapo stuff for a short time but you're 
going to get wet anyway.

Here's the observation I usually pass along.  With non-breathable stuff, 
you're going to be wet from sweat inside 30 minutes.  With Gore-tex, you're 
probably going to be wet from sweat in 45 minutes.  (YMMV)  On the AT, 
you're going to be walking for 8 hours each day.  Is the extra 15 minutes 
really going to be worth it?

I didn't think so.  I sent home my expensive (and heavy) Gore-tex jacket and 
bought a lightweight waterproof non-breathable jacket that packed in to a 
fraction of the size.  I never regretted the decision to do so.  I saw a lot 
of other people do the same.

>2.  Is silnylon really worth it?

There's no reason why you can't hike with plastic though if you're going to 
use a ground sheet, I would also go with Tyvec rather than plastic.  I used 
a silnylon tent and didn't bother to use a groundsheet at all.  If your tent 
bottom is waterproof, it just takes a little bit of care when setting up to 
make sure sharp rocks and sticks are out of the way to prevent tears in your 
tent and save the bulk and weight of the ground sheet.

As for bags and such, I've been making the transition to silnylon and much 
prefer not having to worry as much about the plastic ripping and needing 
replacements as I go.  They probably weigh about the same as plastic and yet 
I don't feel the need to carry extras in case my plastic bags rip.

On the AT, I had to replace my plastic bags frequently.  Since I've bought a 
couple of silnylong bags, I have yet to have to replace them.

Plus, they come in all sorts of colors.  You can practically see through the 
yellow (good for fishing food stuffs) and with the variety of colors, you'll 
always remember which item is in which bag.

>3.  I'm also bringing our very heavy Apex stove.  ...But I have been 
>tossing around the idea of ordering a Pepsi-can stove for months now.  ...

I think most white gas stoves are overkill for the AT.  Think of it this 
way:  Weigh your white gas stove and the amount of fuel you would need for a 
week.  Then consider a soda can stove (1 oz max) and the fuel you would need 
for that.  I need about 3/4 oz of alcohol per day to heat two cups of water 
to boiling for dinner.  With white gas, I would need just a bit less.  But, 
it would take nearly a month (or more) before the white gas stove would be 
worht carrying.

There are plenty of places along the AT to get fuel so white gas wasn't 
worth it for me.  If you were carrying one stove for a group of people, then 
I would definitely rethink.  At that point, the white gas may prove much 
more useful.  You can only put so much alcohol in a soda can stove and 
having to let it cool, refill, relight, etc would make an alcohol stove 
annoying for a group.

I actually used Esbit tablets on the AT but have since used alcohol a lot 
and Esbit tablets a bit.  With Esbit, I need just 1 tablet (1/2 oz) for two 
cups of water and the bottom of a soda can.  It's my lightest option though 
the fuel is rather expensive.

As for testing the stove before you go, that's always a good idea.  The 
alcohol stoves are particularly easy to use (no moving parts) so the test is 
mostly about just figuring out how much fuel you'll need for each day.  You 
also need to get used to the idea that yoiu may not be able to see the flame 
on the alcohol stove during the day.

>4.  For both the Apex and the Pepsi-can stove, how much fuel do I need to 
>bring for about a week?  This is something it's really tough to get 
>estimates on.  Any web links would be helpful.

You'll probably need to experiment a bit because each stove is different.  
The shape of your pot and the coverage of your wind screen may also play a 
role in this.  But, if you start with a 12 oz bottle of alcohol, thaty 
should easily get you to somewhere where you can get more.  You may 
eventually find you don't need to carry that much.

>5.  Nalgene vs. soda bottles.

I like Gatorade bottles.  They are sturdier than soda bottles and have a 
wider mouth and are much lighter than Nalgene.  I've never had one leak.

As for the black stuff...  If you only put water in your bottles, you'll 
probably not have to deal with mold.  If you do like sugared flavorings in 
your water, you may find you have to clean your bottles more frequently or 
replace them when they get too gross to keep using.

>6.  How essential is a Platypus with a hose?  Will I be okay without one?

Not essential at all.  Many people like them because they are hands-free and 
you can drink without stopping.  I find I stay much better hydrated using 
that type of system than bottles.  Even when I carry my bottle in a carrier 
on my hip belt, I still needed to stop to drink.

If you have days (and nights) below freezing in the spring (likely), you may 
not be able to use the hose.  Water will freeze in it (insulators don't work 
all that well) and then you won't be able to get at your water.  Make sure 
you carry water bottles with the top down to prevent the opening from 
freezing.  Water freezes  from top down so an upside down bottle will keep 
more water accessible than right side up.  You may have to keep your water 
in your sleeping bag overnight.  Nothing like carrying a frozen block of 
useless water if your bottle or bag freezes.  If you are using a bag, you 
may not want it filled at night if there's a chance it could leak at the 
valve.  I know many people who've had leaks here and there.  Not pleasant to 
have wet gear (especially sleeping bag) when it's that cold.

>7.  How much water-carrying capacity should I have available at all times?

One liter capacity will likely be enough for most of the trail.  There may 
be times when you'll been more but you are usually aware of them long before 
you get there and can buy an extra liter or two of Gatorade or soda before 
you get there to have more carrying capacity for those areas.

1999 was a drought year and there were times when we had 15+ miles with no 
water.  But, we always knew in advance and prepared for those times.

>8.  Does anyone have compass recommendations?

Many find them unnecessary on the well-marked AT.  But, I would carry one 
just the same.  You never know if you might end up on a bald in the fog and 
need to figure out which way to go.

Most people carry basic compasses.  I have one with mirrored cover (think 
spotting and orienteering)that I found useful.  Traveling alone, there were 
times when it was really nice to have a little mirror.  It could make tick 
checks easier, looking at your own eye if you get something in there, 
spotting injuries in awkward places, and more.  Plus, it was a convenient 
way to safely carry a little mirror.

>9.  What about flashlights?  ...
>10.  What about a headlamp?  ...

Most thruhikers really do sleep with the sun.  As such, you mostly need a 
light for midnight trips to the tree.  Others enjoy night hiking or hiking 
until dark and may need a bit more candlepower.

Headlamps are extremely convenient in that they do leave both hands free.

I suggest something like an Ion headlight and a Photon II.

The Ion is smaller and lighter than the Tikka, Zipka, and probably Aurora, 
too (check on that).  It takes a fairly standard camera battery but lasts 
many hours on one battery.  I can find these batteries at most drug stores 
so might either carry an extra or make sure I have an extra in my bounce 
box.

The the Photon II (or equivalant), that can be a good backup if the Ion 
goes.  The yellow, orange, or red colors (and probably a few others) last 
200 hours.  If you get one of these "squeeze" lights, make sure it's the "2" 
version with the switch.  Otherwise, if you happen to drop it, it won't stay 
on and you won't be able to find it in the dark.

>11.  If I bring duct tape, do I need to carry a repair kit?  If so, what 
>should I carry in it?

As someone else mentioned, it realy depends what else you're taking.  For 
example, duct tape does not stick to silnylon.  Also, think about the kind 
of repairs that can wait until you get to your bounce box vs the ones that 
need to be made right away on the trail.  If using an inflatable pad, can 
you survive without it until you get to your bounce box?  If not, carry that 
repair kit.  Take a look at the rest of your gear and figure out what you 
could repair with duct tape and what not.  Don't forget about repairs to 
yourself.  Ouch!  ;-)

I am not an advocate of carrying duct tape on hiking poles.  I know it 
doesn't weight that much but it does mean you have to lift it with your arms 
with every step.  Also, it tends to get dirty on the pole.  The relatively 
new flat packs are nice.  You can probably make your own version.  They fit 
in snack baggies, too.

Have a great hike!

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