[at-l] Scout knife.

[jbullar1 at twcny.rr.com (Jim Bullard)]

I learned sharpening from my wood sculpture professor who was a stickler 
for having gouges that would easily carve hardwoods. We used somewhat 
heavier equipment than I would want in the field but the principles are the 
same. I have used the method that you describe, but an Arkansas stone is 
both easier to find than a pocket sized piece of polished granite and 
considerably more convenient than the loose grits used in that method. I 
suppose a 'field' perfectionist could substitute a bit of rouge on a small 
leather strop such as http://www.knifeart.com/leatherstrop.html.

At 08:48 PM 1/4/2004 -0600, L. Clayton Parker wrote:
>Jim,
>
>If you are real perfectionist you will use a polished granite "stone"
>with varying grits of "rouge" ((grit) as you put it. There is no powered
>equipment in this scenario, but we are now surpassing the normal into
>the Twilight Zone...
>
>Lee I Joe
>
>On Sun, 2004-01-04 at 20:33, Jim Bullard wrote:
> > At 06:18 PM 1/4/2004 -0500, J Bryan Kramer wrote:
> > >Sharpening stones loaded with industrial diamonds are available for the
> > >harder blades. These can be had in small sizes.
> > >
> > >Bryan
> >
> > Yeah, I have one of those. They're great for initial shaping but for a
> > really sharp blade you want a progression of stones from a coarse shaping
> > stone down to a white Arkansas for polishing. The smoother the ground edge
> > the longer it will hold the edge. If you are a real perfectionist, you
> > might want to buff the final edge on a buffing wheel with some 
> jeweler's rouge.