[at-l] Western Maine Trip Report (3rd and last part) - long

[papabear.nyc@verizon.net (Papa Bear)]

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Dear friends

This is the third and final part of my trip report for my recent section hi=
ke that my daughter and I did on the Appalachian Trail from Gorham New Hamp=
shire to Stratton Maine.  Sorry this has taken so long to get written down,=
 I guess I have trip-report-writers cramp.  This part covers days 9 through=
 14 of our trek - the roughly 32 miles of trail from Maine Highway 4 (Range=
ley) to Maine Highway 27 (Stratton).  Once again the weather caused us to r=
evise our plans.  This (together with the fact that we wanted to get to my =
grandson's first birthday party on Sept. 21st) caused us to decide to finis=
h in Stratton rather than Caratunk as originally planned.

We all know everyone hates long emails, and everyone likes to see pictures =
in trip reports.  If you're one of "everyone", go to my home page:   http:/=
/members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2h6gy/papabear/papabear.html  and click on th=
e link: "AT Section #5: Gorham NH to Stratton ME - 9/7/2002 to 9/202002"  (=
on the right hand side of the list, towards the bottom), and there you will=
 see this same account but complete with a number of pictures.  The web bas=
ed version also has the first two sections of this hike in case you missed =
them when I sent them out last month.

Some of the time in getting this done has been in revamping my web based tr=
ip reports.  I've redesigned them slightly to give them (hopefully) a littl=
e better look and feel.  Things like background, fonts, consistant photo si=
ze, word wrapping etc. etc.  Little things that you may not notice individu=
ally but in the aggregate can improve the look of things.  Anyway, I hope i=
t's better - or at least not worse.

For a gallery of all the albums from my AT hikes this year (including the a=
lbum for this hike), check here:  http://gallery.backcountry.net/papabear_2=
002_sections - the pictures for this hike are in the album titled "Album: P=
apa Bear's AT Hike #5: Gorham to Stratton", which you can find in the lower=
 left of the first page of the gallery (the one with the picture of Baldpat=
e Mountain).

The web based account and the email versions are in synch, so read which ev=
er one you prefer.

Enjoy
Pb

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Day 9: September 15, 2002
Maine Highway 4 to Piazza Rock Lean-to
Weather: Cloudy, rain expected.

We had sprinkles overnight at Gull Pond Lodge where we were staying.  In th=
e morning it was not actually raining as we threw out packs in the back of =
Bob O'Brien's SUV, but it looked threatening.  He took Payslee and myself a=
s well as Dropout (a SOBO) to the trailhead on Route 4.  As we got out in t=
he parking lot and Dropout headed south, the rain started.

We got going at 8:10.  Our goal for the day was to go over Saddleback and T=
he Horn and stay at Poplar Ridge Lean-to.  Since this involved over 2 miles=
 above tree line, we wre concerned with the weather moreso than if we were =
just going through a section like we did the day before. After immediately =
taking the wrong trail (and Bob yelled out the window "Not there, over ther=
e!") we got moving with full packs, high spirits and  light rain.  Almost i=
mmediately we crossed a metal bridge over a stream that was flowing through=
 some kind of sluice.  Perhaps the remnant of some old hydro system.  I fou=
nd out later that this was one of only 2 or 3 foot bridges on the trail in =
the whole state of Maine.  To be honest it was almost unnoticed.

The rain increased as we hiked the first mile or so over an easy trail.  By=
 the time we got to Piazza Rock Lean-to (1.8 miles) it was a downpour with =
thunder audible.  Here we go again!.  We stopped in the shelter to dry out =
and see if we could wait out the storm.  Two NOBOs: Amy and Andy and two we=
ekenders were there.  The weekenders soon left to go back to Route 4 and we=
 settled down for the wait.

We ate our peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for lunch (the kind of lunch =
you can only take on your first day out of a town), got into our sleeping b=
ags and read.  We chatted with Amy and Andy about their hike.  It turns out=
 Andy had lost 55 lb. on the trail: this was surprising since he looked lik=
e your average lean hiker.  Ed, the caretaker, came by and since nothing wa=
s going on he stayed for a couple of hours and just chatted.   He had a ten=
t up the hill a bit and was a neat guy.  He said he could get into town in =
under an hour.  I enjoyed his stories , especially of campers that he had t=
o get to move out of stealth sites into the designated sites at Piazza Rock=
.  Since the Saddlebacks were just up the trail, he had an important educat=
ional role to make sure hikers were careful for themselves and for the deli=
cate alpine environment in the area.

To pass the time I took a walk up the hill to see Piazza Rock.  This was a =
huge slab which overhung an area about 20 feet off the ground.  You could a=
ctually hang out there for shelter from the rain.  There was a way to climb=
 up through a gap in the rocks (memories of Mahoosuc Notch) and get on top =
of the slab for the topside view but I decided it was too wet and muddy, es=
pecially since the view from the top would be essentially nil for today.

The privy was also interesting and amusing.  When you go by there, be sure =
to check it out, both outside and inside.  Eventually we decided we would b=
e stuck here for the night and we went over our supplies to make sure we co=
uld make it to Stratton with the food we had brought.  We also discovered b=
y studying the trail guide and asking the caretaker that Crocker Cirque Cam=
psite has no shelter - just a tenting area.  This was an "Oops" moment for =
us, since we had sent our tent back home from Andover to save weight.  Stup=
id!  So we figured what options we had: stay at the Sugar shack on Sugarloa=
f; camp out with just out tarps (hoping for good weather); or get a ride to=
 Stratton from Caribou Valley Road and do the Crockers as a day hike.  We w=
ould figure that out later.

We cooked dinner, and got to sleep early.  Rain rain, go away ...

Day 9 Trail Miles: 1.8
Aggregate Trail Miles: 66.4, Aggregate Total 72.6

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Day 10: September 16, 2002
Piazza Rock Lean-to back to Maine Highway 4
Weather: 55 - 60 degrees, rain.

It rained all night and continued into the morning.  We stayed in our bags =
as long as possible and then cooked breakfast about 8:00 AM. We gave oursel=
ves a deadline of 10:00 AM: either go on, or go back to Stratton to dry out=
 and resupply.  We already knew that we had to cut more of our planned mile=
age if we were to make it back to Boston on time.

The rain didn't let up so we started back and made it to the road at around=
 10:45 AM.  Just before we got to the road, we met a man heading north who =
introduced himself as Digger.  He said two of his friends were following sh=
ortly behind.  When we got out to the road we saw the two others and in fac=
t Digger had come back to find them or perhaps to make sure they found the =
right entrance to the trail.  They had evidently camped the night before at=
 one of the sites in the previous section and were heading on to the Lean-t=
o where we had just spent the last day.  They were carrying fairly heavy pa=
cks and they were all very wet.

We got picked up almost immediately and got back to town by 11:00 AM.  I ca=
lled Bob O'Brien at Gull Pond Lodge and told him what had happened and said=
 we would like to stay there again that night, which was fine with him. He =
was coming to town shortly so he agreed to meet us after lunch at the laund=
romat to take us back to the lodge.  We did some shopping, had lunch and di=
d our laundry.  The rain eventually did let up, but it was too late to go b=
ack to the trail.  I bumped into Bob at a restaurant where he was having lu=
nch along with Church Lady and Elvis.  I also met Honey and Homey on the st=
reet, with her parents.  It seemed like everyone was in Rangeley today.

We got back to the Lodge in the early afternoon and we reformulated our pla=
ns.  We decided we would cut short our hike at Stratton (and save Caratunk =
for next year) and get an early bus to Boston on Saturday the 21st so we co=
uld make my grandson's birthday party that afternoon.  We would thus have 4=
 days of hiking and stay at Poplar Ridge Lean-to and Spaulding Mountain Lea=
n-to the first two nights and hopefully get a shuttle at Caribou Valley Roa=
d and stay in town on the third night. The short hike (8 miles) between Pop=
lar Ridge and Spaulding Mountain Lean-tos on Wednesday would allow ample ti=
me to do the side trip to Mount Abraham, and the use of day packs and the e=
ven shorter distance (5.2 miles) on Friday for the Crockers would make it e=
asier for us to attempt the bushwhack to Mount Redington from South Crocker=
.  So by stretching what was essentially a 3 day hike into 4 days, we would=
 pick up both Abraham and Redington as off-trail "extras" (besides making l=
ife easier for ourselves).  I made a few calls: I cancelled the shuttle fro=
m Caratunk; arranged for a pickup at Caribou Valley Road on Thursday; and a=
rranged for a shuttle from Stratton to the bus stop in Waterville for Satur=
day. Charlie Bruce, the Stratton Motel proprietor, was more than happy to d=
o the shuttling and was familiar with the routes and pickup points.

Several hikers showed up at the Lodge including No-See-Um who had got separ=
ated from his brother.  About an hour later Bob O'Brien got a call and went=
 to pick up the missing brother.  It seems he went back a few miles on the =
trail to find No-See-Um (who in fact had hitched to town).  All's well that=
 ends well.  To cap it all off, Duck Tape, Hollywood and So Far showed up a=
bout 8:00 PM.  It was like old home week at Gull Pond Lodge.

After dinner I took a walk outside to look over Gull Pond.  Clearing skies =
- good news finally!


Day 10 Trail Miles: -1.8 (Yes - that's negative mileage!)
Aggregate Trail Miles: 64.6, Aggregate Total 74.4

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Day 11: September 17, 2002
Maine Highway 4 to Poplar Ridge Lean-to
Weather: 50 degrees, morning fog over Gull Pond.

We got an early start after breakfast.  Duck Tape joined Payslee and myself=
 in the van to get an early start over the Saddleback range.  Hollywood and=
 So Far would follow later after doing some errands in town.  We all planne=
d to stay the night at Poplar Ridge Lean-to.  We got to the trailhead at ar=
ound 8:15 and Duck Tape soon disappeared.  The fog shrouded the lower valle=
ys and the sky was clear overhead so it looked to be a beautiful day for hi=
king.

We got to the now familiar Piazza Rock Shelter at around 9:00 AM.  Duck Tap=
e was taking a break there, but after changing my shirt we moved on.  The a=
rea past the Lean-to - which was new ground for us - was lovely with severa=
l nice ponds and easy climbing.  We passed Eddy Pond and took the short sid=
e trail to check it out.  This side trail crossed a woods road and the way =
to get back to the AT was a little confusing.  The trail then got rather st=
eep - but not too bad - a series of stair climbs and slabs.  By 11:00 AM we=
 had climbed 1600' according to Payslee's altimeter watch.  We took a short=
 break and then resumed our climb, making it to the top of Saddleback by 12=
:00 noon.  As we got above treeline and close to the summit the wind increa=
sed substantially (probably to the 30 - 40 MPH range). The peak wind speed =
was where the steep side of the peak leveled off a bit at the dome, rather =
than at the summit itself. The shape of the mountain clearly funnels the wi=
nds up and over.
We got to the summit and after the obligatory photos we found a little rock=
 shelter just to one side of the summit and took about a half hour for lunc=
h and relaxing.  There were  360 degrees of awesome views.  To the west was=
 Eddy Pond which we had passed in the morning and Rangeley Lake beyond in t=
he distance.  To the North and East was the Carrabasset Valley with Spauldi=
ng, Sugarloaf the Crockers and Redington forming a massive semi-circle, wit=
h the rocky ridge of Abraham slanting off to the south like a spoke coming =
off of this gigantic hub.  We were expecting Duck Tape to move on by at any=
 moment but  he didn't.

We got moving again about 12:30.  We saw the foundations of some structure =
that used to be near the summit, and we saw a warming hut about 1/4 mile do=
wn the slope to the north.  Ed the caretaker said this was sometimes used a=
s a refuge from storms.  I would say it would be rather hard to find in a s=
torm!  We crossed the "saddle" and made it to The Horn by 1:40 PM.  The col=
 was steep at either end but rather easy to cross in the mid section.  The =
ski trails were not too visible - you could just see the top of several tra=
ils from Saddleback.  I have heard that they may add new trails on the nort=
h side of the col, but since that is one of the more beautiful areas I hope=
 whatever they do is not visible from the trail.  We kept on moving along t=
he ridge to a smaller peak called Saddleback Junior where we dropped below =
tree line.  As the northern point of the ridge line, Saddleback Junior had =
the closest and best views of the circle of mountains around the Carrabasse=
t Valley.

We made our way down to the Poplar Ridge Lean-to along a fairly steeply des=
cending trail.  At one point I noticed a funny blaze with orange on one sid=
e and white on the other.  I then noticed lying right by the side of the tr=
ail a Thermorest pad neatly rolled up.  remembering how a trail angel (Yats=
e) had taken my fleece shirt forward and eventually brought it to me (in An=
dover), I picked up the pad and we carried it along (actually Payslee carri=
ed it along).  A short time later we came upon two men who were stopped and=
 fussing with their packs.  Their packs were in great disarray with all man=
ner of odds and ends tied on at various points.  I asked if perhaps it was =
their Thermarest pad we had found and they checked and said yes it was, tha=
nks so much.  They had not even noticed that it was missing till we asked.

We moved on and got to the lean-to at 4:20 PM.  Digger (whom we had met at =
Route 4 in the rain the day before) was there, and the other two men (Jeff =
and Jerry - who were the ones we has passed fiddling with their packs) soon=
 showed up.  They were the other two we had met at the road.  It seems the =
three of them were from Canada and were doing a section of the AT from Rout=
e 27 to Stratton.  Digger seemed a little more experienced than the others =
but they all seemed to be carrying at least 50 lb backpacks and the rain of=
 the two previous days had dampened their spirits (as well as dampened all =
their gear!) somewhat.  But today was a great day to go over Saddleback and=
 their stuff was beginning to dry out, so life was definitely on the upswin=
g.

Digger said that Church Lady and Elvis were also at the Lean-to when he got=
 there but they had just moved on.  They had started up from Route 4 yester=
day after the rain had let up and stayed overnight at Piazza Rock (where th=
e three Canadian guys had also stayed) to get a head start at going over Sa=
ddleback and intended to camp on the old rail bed just above Oberton Stream=
 tonight (about 2.7 miles further on).  I can only assume that Amy and Andy=
 had gone over Saddleback late yesterday (after we had given up and gone ba=
ck to town) and were now a day ahead of us.

We started to settle in and prepare dinner when Duck Tape showed up a littl=
e after 5:00.  It seems the "trail had got lost" around Eddy Pond (which we=
 had also found confusing) and after doing some exploring, the trail once a=
gain had found him and he crossed the Saddleback Ridge well after us.  Then=
 about an hour later, Hollywood and So Far also showed up.  They kidded Duc=
k tape a little about his misadventure at Eddy Pond and then the three of t=
hem set up their tents (which they preferred to shelters except in heavy ra=
in) and made their dinner as well.  Curiously they each had a different typ=
e of shelter (a Clip Flashlight, a hammock and I forget the third type) and=
 a different type of stove (a tin can alcohol stove, a Wisperlight and an E=
sbit as I recall), but they were all pretty much at home with their gear as=
 you'd expect after some 2000 miles of backpacking.

The Lean-to itself deserves some comment.  It was one of only two of the or=
iginal "baseball bat" lean-tos still on the trail (I'm told the other one i=
s in the 100 mile Wilderness). This refers to the floor which consisted of =
round fir logs, about 6 in in diameter. With a good sleeping pad such as a =
Thermarest this was not too uncomfortable, but without some real padding un=
derneath it would be a veritable torture chamber to sleep on.  Hence the na=
me "baseball bat lean-to".  There was a long and rather humorous explanatio=
n left in the Lean-to by the maintainer (Dave Field - who at various times =
was chairman of both the ATC and the MATC). It seems that Dave had actually=
 built this lean-to with his wife in the 1950s.  The intent was that the fi=
rst campers of each season would cut fresh fir boughs from the surrounding =
area and lay them over the floor to form a soft aromatic bed for sleeping. =
 With the heightened sense of preserving the forest (especially so close to=
 an alpine zone where this lean-to was located) in more recent times, the u=
se of fir boughs had been supplanted by synthetic sleeping pads such as we =
use today.  A number of other features of the lean-to were explained as wel=
l (such as why there is that deep gap between the log at the entrance of th=
e lean-to and the rest of the floor - you know where you fall and practical=
ly kill yourself when you get up in the middle of the night to take a pee).=
  You must go there and read it yourself, I'm not giving away any more of t=
he secrets.

Day 11 Trail Miles: 10.
Aggregate Trail Miles: 75.3, Aggregate Total 85.1
Peaks: Saddleback (4120'), The Horn (4041'), Saddleback Junior (3655').

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Day 12: September 18, 2002
Poplar Ridge Lean-to to Spaulding Mountain Lean-to
Weather: 50 degrees, Clear.

We arose at 6:30 AM.  It was a beautiful clear morning, though a bit chill.=
  The three Canadian guys were up and about as well, and we all made our br=
eakfasts.  We chatted a bit about the thru-hikers who always seemed to slee=
p late but ended up getting through the day's journey faster that the rest =
of us.  We got ourselves packed up and were off at 7:50 AM.  None of the th=
ru-hikers had yet to stir as we left.

As we started down off the ridge we saw the valley below us filled with fog=
 with the mountains beyond bathed in sunlight.  The descent was a bit steep=
, with some rock slabs.  Payslee slipped on one slab and hurt her ankle.  T=
his would bother her when she put her full weight on it for the rest of the=
 day.

We met a day hiker coming up the slope: it was Big Red, who was actually a =
NOBO thru-hiker.  He was slack-packing each section, sometimes in the rever=
se direction.  He started earlier that morning at a logging road past Obert=
on Stream (about 3 or 4 miles from where we were) and was heading for Route=
 4.  We learned later that he was cooperatively slack-packing with two othe=
r thru-hikers (Sunrise and Sunset) and they would exchange keys for their c=
ars each day as they passed each other mid-section.  We met up with them a =
couple of days later.

We reached the valley floor and traversed a section of lovely woods.  We go=
t to Oberton Stream at about 9:50 and crossed without much difficulty, but =
I think in high water this would be a tough crossing.  The trail then climb=
ed the steep stream bank and this was a very badly eroded section.  There w=
ere old wood stairs made of large logs which were almost completely rotted =
away.  This was a tough climb since it was mostly loose dirt and mud.  This=
 little section could really use some maintenance!  At the top of the bank =
we reached the old rail bed and there were Church Lady and Elvis who had ca=
mped there that night.  They were just getting ready to continue on so we s=
aid goodbye to them and took a break.  A small stream (Sluice Brook) crosse=
d the railbed and fell over a rock slab down into the much larger Oberton S=
tream.  This was a very pretty spot and would make a nice stealth campsite.

The Canadian guys showed up as we got going again.  The next section, up th=
e side of Lone Mountain, was relatively easy, through mostly open hardwood =
forests.  We passed a couple of streams (Sluice Brook and Perham Stream) an=
d two logging roads in fairly good shape.  I assume Big Red had parked his =
car at one of these but if so it was out of sight, since there were no cars=
 visible from the trail.  Digger (the first of the three Canadians) passed =
us as we took a short break and then we continued up through rather beautif=
ul woods, moving parallel to a stream for most of a mile.  We reached the t=
op of Lone Mountain at about 12:15 and took our lunch break.  Digger was he=
re also finishing up a break.

We got going again and reached the side trail to Mount Abraham.  It was 1.7=
 miles to the Abraham summit (3.4 miles round trip) and Payslee decided to =
keep going onto Spaulding Mountain Lean-to while I made the side trip to "b=
ag" the peak.

The Abraham Side trip
I dropped my backpack and pulled out a small day pack I had, put my water, =
rain gear and trail food in it and got going.

The Abraham trail started out rather easy but soon be came a steep walk.  T=
here was one section which had a series of nasty blowdowns.  I'm guessing t=
his side trail receives less attention from the maintenance crews than the =
main trail.  The trail then became easy again until we reached an open area=
 of felsenmeer on the side of a minor peak of Abraham.  The trail skirted t=
o the left at the base of this rocky section, and for the first time I coul=
d see the main Abraham peak ahead.  This is an unusually rocky peak with an=
 exposed ridgeline.  For a peak barely above 4000', it is quite barren, per=
haps due to the direction of the wind, the ridge line, and it's relationshi=
p to the other peaks in the region.  In contrast, Mount Spaulding, just a c=
ouple of miles to the north, at almost the same elevation, has a non-descri=
pt wooded summit.

I crossed the col to the true summit, first through some krumholtz fir, and=
 then over more felsenmeer to the top.  The last section was a rock scrambl=
e up a rather steep crag, but all in all it was not a bad climb.  There was=
 a beautiful blue sky, 60 degree temperatures and not too much wind.  I rea=
ched the top about 2:00 PM.  There was a small observation tower there and =
another hiker greeted me.  He introduced himself at Mack (or maybe it was M=
ax) Smith and he had grown up in this area but now lived in the Boston area=
.  He pointed out to me the surrounding peaks of Spaulding and Sugarloaf.  =
The view along the Abraham ridge line was especially stunning. He was a tra=
il maintainer for a nearby section and was just out for the day.  We walked=
 back to the AT together but he really pushed me, pace-wise.  When we got b=
ack to the AT (about 3:00 PM), he continued across and down the side of Spa=
ulding on an unmarked trail to some place where he had left his car. I thin=
k it was the same logging road where Big Red had left his car.

Back on the AT
I switched back to my pack (which was still there safe and sound) and made =
my way to the Spaulding Mountain Lean-to, about a half hour further on.  On=
 the way I met a SOBO named Gourmet Dan who had stayed at the top of Sugarl=
oaf last night.  He waxed eloquent about the sunset and views - it turns ou=
r he was a photographer and was carrying a lot of equipment.

When I got to the lean-to I found everyone else had passed me while I was d=
oing the Abraham side trip and had made it to the lean-to ahead of me - the=
 three Canadians as well as Duck Tape, Hollywood and So far.  The Canadians=
 were hanging their clothes to dry (from that rain the day before yesterday=
), Payslee was relaxing reading a book and the thru-hikers were pumping wat=
er.  They intended to camp that night at the top of Sugarloaf  (where there=
 was no water) and were making their last water stop before setting off.  S=
omeone mentioned that Gourmet Dan had left there shortly before my arrival =
(which I knew) and that he was carrying 25lb of photo equipment and a batte=
ry powered watch-man (a portable TV!).  He expected to shoot some 10,000 pi=
ctures in his southbound trek!  Quite ambitious!

It had been a short day (even including the Abraham side trip) so we finish=
ed supper early and after reading a bit I got an early bed.  The three guys=
 built a camp fire and played with it a bit until they too turned in.

Day 12 Trail Miles: 8.0, Extra Miles: 3.4, Total 11.4
Aggregate Trail Miles: 83.3, Aggregate Total 96.5
Peaks: Mount Abraham (4043').
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Day 13: September 19, 2002
Spaulding Mountain Lean-to to Caribou Valley Road
Weather: 55 degrees, thin clouds.

We took it easy breaking camp this morning since the day would be both shor=
t and with little elevation gain.  We were going to climb the side trail to=
 Sugarloaf and have lunch there, and then descend the steep northern side o=
f that mountain to Caribou Valley Road, where a shuttle would pick us up in=
 the early afternoon.

We were off at 8:30 AM and got to the trail to Spaulding Mountain a little =
after 9:00 AM.  We dropped our packs and walked the short distance to this =
non-descript peak.  Recently the AMC revised it's list of 4000 footers in N=
ew England (based on new USGS maps) and added Spaulding and Redington (whic=
h we would summit tomorrow) to the list.  So although the trail guide indic=
ates an elevation of 3988' for Spaulding, the new list puts it  at 4010'.  =
The walk to the summit and back took about 15 minutes and we then moved alo=
ng the easy trail towards Sugarloaf.

In a short time we reached the plaque commemorating the completion of the l=
ast section of the AT in 1937.  The plaque says "near this spot".  I wonder=
ed why it didn't say "at this spot" and then Aha!, the plaque was put preci=
sely here because there was a perfect rock next to the trail on which to mo=
unt the bronze plaque.  It's actually rather nice to see this and to be rem=
inded of the work done in the 1930s to push the trail trough Maine up to Ka=
tahdin.

In about an hour we reached the point where the trail turned left, and stra=
ight ahead the side trail to Sugarloaf began.  As in the case of the trail =
over Old Speck, the AT used to go straight over Sugarloaf.  It was relocate=
d a while back to keep the trail away from the ski area there.  We dropped =
our packs and put our lunch food and water into our day packs.  We saw the =
three packs of the Canadian guys were dropped there as well.  They had left=
 before us this morning but were also planning on taking a lunch break atop=
 Sugarloaf.  Just then down the trail came who else, but Dick Tape, Hollywo=
od and So far.  They had spent the night in the "Sugar-shack", a ski warmin=
g hut on the summit and said they had beautiful views and a gorgeous sunset=
 from the top last night.  They were headed over the Crockers and into Stra=
tton today so we said we would probably see them there.

The side trail to the top was steep - for a walk - but never involved any r=
ock scrambles.  There were a few blow-downs, but nothing serious.  The temp=
erature had risen to 60 degrees and it was humid and a little hazy.  Unfort=
unately with these conditions we would not have the great views the boys re=
ported.  We got to the top at 11:00 AM and to tell  truth it was rather dis=
appointing:  there were ugly radio towers and other electrical paraphernali=
a all over the summit, and the ski hut (the "Sugar-shack") was a bit tatter=
ed.  It certainly did not look like a prosperous resort area.  We took some=
 pictures and had a good view of Mount Redington across the Carrabasset Val=
ley which was a special project on tomorrow's agenda.  The side of Redingto=
n was scarred by a swath of recently clear-cut forest.  Redington is where =
a proposed wind farm is under consideration.  This has engendered a fair am=
ount of opposition since this would "mar" the view-shed of the AT.  I remem=
ber the wind farm I had seen in southern Vermont (which had an eerie, if un=
natural beauty), and observing the clear cut, and turning around and seeing=
 the very ugly radio towers on top of Sugarloaf, I wondered if the wind far=
m could actually detract from this already ugly view-shed.  In my own humbl=
e opinion I think the clear cutting is a much worse threat to both the view=
 and the ecology of this section of the trail.

We went into the Sugar-shack from the basement and found it to be rather ru=
ndown, with old equipment and plywood scattered about.  The remnants of an =
old abandoned gondola lift were in the basement.  This had evidently been r=
eplaced by a chair lift off to the side.  We went up stairs and found the t=
hree Canadian guys enjoying lunch on the north-east facing porch.  This is =
where one can see Katahdin on a clear day, but alas not today.  There was a=
 portable radio which was still turned on playing some rock music, and a ph=
one on the desk that actually seemed to work.  We turned off the radio.  Th=
is was a strange, incongruous, almost disconcerting scene.  On the desk was=
 a register and we leafed through it to see whose name we would recognize. =
 Duck Tape's entry from last night was but one word: "Katahdin!".

We relaxed a bit on the porch and enjoyed our lunch, especially the cheddar=
 and Swiss cheese which we wanted to use up.  The sun was hot and life sure=
 felt good at this moment.  In spite of the ugliness of the "civilized" enc=
roachments to this summit, I highly recommend the side trip here, especiall=
y if the weather is clear. After all, Sugarloaf is the second highest peak =
in the state - after Katahdin.   But remember if you plan to stay over nigh=
t, bring your own water.

The three guys got moving around noon, and after contacting our shuttle con=
firming the time for our pickup, we too got moving. We reached the bottom o=
f the side trail about 12:50 and found the three guys resting.  This, after=
 .6 miles down hill!

The trail down used to go entirely along a steep ridge line with great view=
s to the north and west, but a recent rockslide had necessitated rerouting =
part of it it through the less dramatic wooded area away from the ridge lin=
e.  But the trail still followed the ridge for most of it's length and ther=
e were some fairly steep tough rock ledges to descend over.  In the upper h=
ardwood forest zone we saw considerable leaf litter as we had seen in other=
 similar areas.  This caused some slippery conditions in the steeper sectio=
ns.

We got to the Carabasset River about 2:15 PM, just as Digger caught  up wit=
h us. This was a fairly easy crossing, but like Oberton Stream on the other=
 side of Sugarloaf it looked like it would be very treacherous in high wate=
r.  It was now 85 degrees and we were glad we weren't planning on climbing =
the Crockers today.  The other two Canadians were a short distance behind a=
nd we could hear their voices as they approached,.  We mentioned that were =
going into town tonight and had a shuttle arranged and Digger seemed a bit =
jealous.  But this would be their last night on the trail so they went on t=
o Crocker Cirque and finished up the next day.  We said good bye since we m=
ight not see them again.

After a short rest at the river, where Payslee and I both soaked our feet i=
n the cold water, we got moving again.  It turns out that there is a nice f=
lat area just past the river which would make a perfect stealth camp site. =
 We hiked the last .1 miles to the road and after a short wait Charlie Bruc=
e showed up with his battered SUV.  Charlie ran the Stratton Motel where we=
 were staying tonight and tomorrow night and also did shuttles in the area.

Caribou Valley Road is actually a private road owned by the logging company=
 but it is more than just a "logging road".  It is graded for heavy trucks =
and had several heavy metal grating bridges over streams.  It is however he=
avily rutted and it would take a heavy duty suspension to travel over it (a=
t least at the speed that Charlie took it).  It is typically used by hikers=
 to get to the AT as well as an access point for climbing Mount Redington, =
a couple of miles further in.  Just stay out of the way of the logging truc=
ks!

We got to Stratton in about 20 minutes and checked in to the Motel.  There =
is a hiker's hostel section of the place, which is basically a kitchen, liv=
ing room and several bedrooms upstairs.  It was originally an apartment use=
d by the previous owners who lived there.  Although cheaper than a regular =
motel room, it was actually much nicer.  Payslee and I found our room upsta=
irs and then we went about doing some errands.  Across the street was a mar=
ket where we picked up some food for tomorrow's lunch, spaghetti for supper=
, as well as the obligatory ice cream and beer.

Around supper time Duck tape showed up and checked in as well.  They had ma=
de the trek over the Crockers and would all be staying in Stratton tonight.=
  Hollywood and So Far were a little ahead of him but as it turns out they =
never got to the motel - they checked into another place a few hundred yard=
s up the road.  As we ate our spaghetti, Duck Tape consumed a whole pizza.

After supper I finished a Sci-Fi book I had picked up in Andover and contri=
buted it to the bookshelf here.  We arranged with Charlie for an early (7:3=
0 AM) shuttle back to Caribou Valley Road for the next morning so we could =
complete the last segment of trail, and got an early bed.

Day 13 Trail Miles: 5.2, Extra Miles: 1.3, Total 6.5
Aggregate Trail Miles: 88.5, Aggregate Total 103.0
Peaks: Mount Spaulding (4010'), Sugarloaf (4237').
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Day 14: September 20, 2002
Caribou Valley Road to Maine Highway 27
Weather: 60s, thin overcast, humid.

Our last day!  It was unfortunate that our original agenda was cut short, b=
ut what we did we enjoyed immensely, and there is a whole lifetime to do th=
e missing sections, so we had no regrets.  We decided that we would do the =
bushwhack to Mount Redington today when we got to South Crocker.  This woul=
d add something different and interesting.  It would add a little "spice" s=
o to speak to the day's hiking.

We had an early breakfast across the street at the diner and we were ready =
to go by 7:30 AM.  Charlie got going shortly thereafter and we were off dow=
n Route 27 to Caribou Valley Road.  The ride over this rutted dirt road was=
 no less jarring than it was yesterday but this was in keeping with the cha=
racter of this rugged outpost of civilization.

We got to the trailhead shortly before 8:00 AM.  There was some fog on the =
upper reaches and the air was rather humid.  It was now 65 degrees but it l=
ooked like it would be a rather sweaty day.

We passed the side trail to Crocker Cirque Campsite in about half an hour. =
 There was no sign of the three Canadians, nor did we see them all day, but=
 we assumed they  were there and had simply passed us when we were doing th=
e Redington side trip.  The trail became steep and rocky for about a half m=
ile but was otherwise not too bad.  The humidity was getting a little heavi=
er as we warmed up in the ascent. We reached South Crocker at about 9:20 AM=
 (it is located on a very short side trail off the AT:  no more than a hund=
red yards).

The Redington Side Trip
At this point we did some planning:  we got out the maps I had printed of t=
he area between South Crocker and Redington, got out our compasses and plot=
ted several bearings across the col to Redington.  I had also printed out d=
irections from another hiker who had done the bushwhack.  The two choices w=
ere to proceed straight along the ridge line to the mid-point of the col, o=
r to head about 10 degrees to the right of this bearing (which would be dow=
n off the col slightly to the north) and reach a clear-cut on the north sid=
e of the col.  This latter seemed to be the more popular route as there was=
 a (badly) flagged herd path in this direction and this was the route for w=
hich we had the written directions, so we decided to proceed that way.

We left a note at the AT South Crocker sign of who we were and where we wer=
e going (in case we got lost) and at that point we met a couple of hikers w=
ho had just reached that point: Sunrise and Sunset.  This was a thru-hiking=
 couple who were slack-packing the trail, one section at a time.  We learne=
d later that they were doing it cooperatively with Big Red (whom we had met=
 the day before yesterday hiking up Poplar Ridge).  They would exchange car=
 keys as they crossed paths in each section.  They all made it to Katahdin =
in about another two weeks.

We then got going on our bushwhack: I put on my long sleeve fleece shirt an=
d sun glasses (as protection from Spruce needles, not the cold or the sun).=
  The heard path proceeded in a zig-zag fashion: falling off the ridge to t=
he right for a hundred yards or so, and then cutting back to the left back =
up the ridge.  It was probably following the path of least resistance, and =
for the most part it was easy to follow.  When there were multiple alternat=
ive paths, we followed the red ribbons that someone had set out, with relat=
ive ease.  Setting out these markers is highly frowned upon. Since we knew =
from the other hiker's directions that the marked herd path ended up at the=
 right point, we followed them rather than following a straight bearing.  A=
lthough many bushwhackers have their own technique for getting through thic=
k Spruce, I found the best way was to stay low and avoid the thickest branc=
hes, and look for signs on the ground of prior travel, such as the moss bei=
ng worn off of logs or rocks. If you should decide to do this bushwhack and=
 find the markers gone, I suggest setting a bearing to a point 200' below t=
he midpoint of the col (to the north-west).  This will bring you out at the=
 clear-cut which I would say is the best route.

We soon crossed the boundary of the AT corridor (a swath about 10 feet wide=
 cut through the forest in a straight line) and at this point I assume we w=
ere on Paper Company land.  The path continued on down zig-zagging through =
very thick areas, interspersed with some rather open areas.  At one point t=
here was an extremely nasty  blow-down.  It was at that point that I think =
Payslee said "This is dumb!". After what I would say was about a half mile =
(as the crow flies) we got to the clear-cut area.  This looked like it had =
been cut in the last 2 or 3 years, although I'm no expert on this.  There w=
as little or no new growth, but plenty of slash on the ground.  If you've n=
ever seen a clear-cut close up, you might describe it as a disaster area.  =
We worked our way straight across on an even contour.  We were looking for =
a skid road heading up to the left.  A skid road is just a path where logs =
have been pulled out of an area by heavy equipment.  We found what we thoug=
ht was the skid road and went up the hill to the left, but it turned out th=
is was not the actual skid road, just a relatively open swath.  To get back=
 to the proper route we had to bushwhack through a very tough section above=
 the clear-cut for several hundred yards.  We suddenly came to the real ski=
d road and were much relieved.  This continued up to the left and became a =
woods road as it left the clear cut area.

At the top of the col (by which I mean the high point when crossing perpend=
icular to the ridge line. You cold also call this the "bottom" of the col s=
ince it's the lowest point on the ridge line.) we found our next herd path.=
  This went up almost directly on the ridge line heading up to Redington, a=
nd was somewhat easier to follow.  If there are no markings and you try thi=
s, just set a bearing from the top of the col on the woods road to the top =
of Redington.  I got the sense that the Spruce here was younger than the se=
ction we had just traversed.  There were several open areas and no serious =
blow-downs.  After about a half mile we came out to the trail which took us=
 the rest of the way to the summit.  This trail was only recently construct=
ed (I believe by the wind-farm company) and starts out from some logging ro=
ads that start at Caribou Valley Road (on the south-east side of the col). =
 Another 10 minutes of easy hiking brought us to the top.  There was a sing=
le tower (really just a pole 20' or 30' high with guy wires on three sides)=
 on the summit - it looked like there was an anemometer on the top of the p=
ole.  Perhaps the windmill people used it to measure wind speed and directi=
on for their proposed project.  Just to one side of this tower was a canist=
er on a tree with a register inside.  We signed in the register, read throu=
gh some of the recent entries and then sat down for lunch.  It had taken us=
 an hour and 35 minutes to reach Redington from South Crocker, and I would =
estimate we did about a mile and a half of travel to get here.

After lunch we reversed the trek back to South Crocker.  This time it took =
only about a hour and 10 minutes since we knew the route and didn't take an=
y wrong turns as we had done getting there.

Back on the AT
When we got back to South Crocker we sat down and ate a second lunch.  We f=
ound two other hikers there: Mario and Migrator.  They were SOBO thru-hiker=
s (not flip-floppers) and the reason they had started so late is that they =
had to first finish their summer jobs as camp counselors.  It was at the ca=
mp they had met and decided to hike the AT, and they were off and doing it.=
  I just hope they could get through the worst of the Whites before the wea=
ther got too heavy.

We got going again on the trail and made it over to North Crocker, the last=
 peak of our trip.  There followed a long and boring descent.  We would des=
cend close to 2500' in about 5 miles.  I found the work going down the moun=
tain was more trying (especially on my knees) than the bushwhack.  As we we=
re moving down we were passed by a NOBO named Veggie Vagabond.  He was movi=
ng fast and hoped to get over the Bigelows before it rained.  I'm not sure =
when it was supposed to rain but he was in a hurry.  As we descended into t=
he hardwood zone, we found ourselves passing through one of the most beauti=
ful groves of Paper Birch that I had seen anywhere.  The Birches were inter=
spersed with a few Maples in fall foliage and the red of the maples against=
 the white bark of the Birches was stunning.   In an example of perhaps the=
 cleverest example of trail blazing I have yet seen, there was a white blaz=
e painted on an old scar stategically locataed on a large Paper Birch. Belo=
w the Birches we went through some Hemlock and hit a few rocky areas and ac=
tually a few switchbacks.

We finally got to Route 27 about 4:55 PM - our hike was over.  After the ph=
oto shot at the trailtale, we hitched into Stratton.  I was tired from the =
day's trek - not so much the mileage but the extra work involved, but I fel=
t it was a well spent day and I was quite happy to have done the Redington =
trek.  I would guess however that the average AT hiker would be likely to s=
kip that side trip.

After a shower and a short rest, we got a ride from Charlie to a restaurant=
 at the other end of town: Mainley Yours.  As we got into his van, who shou=
ld yell a hello at us but Yatse (who had returned my lost fleece shirt a we=
ek and a half ago in Andover).  He was staying at the B&B just down the roa=
d (the White Wolf Inn) with none other than Duck Tape, Hollywood and So Far=
.  They had all taken a zero day, and Duck Tape had moved over from our Mot=
el to be with his friends.

The restaurant had good food and character.  It seemed to have an Elvis the=
me and the high point (culturally) was when the plastic alligator sang an E=
lvis imitation.  You gotta love it!  We walked back to the Motel, and chatt=
ed briefly with the boys at the White Wolf.  We got skeptical looks from th=
em when we described our bushwhack ("Well were there nice views?", "No, not=
 really.").  To each his own.

Tomorrow we would get an early shuttle from Charlie to Waterville, take the=
 bus to Boston, and reenter civilization at my grandson's first birthday pa=
rty.  But for now, we were done.

Day 13 Trail Miles: 7.3, Extra Miles: 3.0, Total 10.3
Aggregate Trail Miles: 95.8, Aggregate Total 113.3
Peaks: South Crocker (4010'), Mount Redington (4010'), North Crocker (4228'=
)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Summary

Usually this is the section of my trip reports where I put in stuff like ho=
w the stove worked, did my boots leak, etc.  Well there's not much to say t=
his time about gear performance, pack weight and so forth.  I think the mor=
e you hike the less you obsess about those things and the more you just get=
 in the groove and go with the flow.

Of course if something really doesn't work like it's supposed to, you will =
notice and probably complain.  In that category were 1) The PUR water filte=
r - it just got very tough to pump even though it was not visibly clogged. =
 A couple of thru hikers mentioned that the PUR filters tended to jam up li=
ke that (Duck Tape had a similar problem) and you should get a replacement =
filter from PUR.  Now that I'm back I still haven't gotten around to doing =
that, but I know I will have to do something before my next long trek. 2) M=
y Nikon digital camera - there seemed to be a lot more out of focus picture=
s than on previous hikes.  Either I'm getting careless or the camera's auto=
-focus system is not working like it used to.  Paradoxically the close-up m=
ode ("Macro zoom") that I use for wild flower pictures seemed to work fine.=
  More investigation will be needed on this issue.

Aside from gear, an important lesson I learned from this trek was one of fl=
exibility: don't be a slave to your schedule.  Take a day off when you need=
 it, in fact plan on days off.  And don't be afraid to sit out a rain storm=
 and wait for a better day to do a section.  This is particularly true of e=
xposed alpine sections.  Not only is it a matter of enjoying the extraordin=
ary beauty of these areas on a clear day (and the excitement on a clear win=
dy day), but it is also a matter of safety to stay off these ridges during =
intense weather.

But the real topic of this summary is Why do I hike?, Will I do the whole t=
rail someday?

in short ...


What's it all about?

Having thought about what motivates may for sometime, I have come up with t=
wo somewhat (but not necessarily) contradictory drives:

1) The compulsive, goal oriented drive.  I'm a marathoner.  I'm a peak bagg=
er.  I thrive in setting tough goals for myself, even goals that take month=
s of preparation or months to execute.  Just wanting to hike the AT "becaus=
e it's there" is just the type of thing that satisfies this "need" of mine.=
  This kind of goal often gets me out the door, gets me planning to do grea=
t treks, planning on qualifying for the Boston Marathon "just one more time=
".  The recognition I inevitably get from friends and family is also part o=
f this.  It certainly strokes my ego to be considered the one who can under=
take things the average person would never consider.  I'm the "Marathoner" =
of the family.  I'm the "Appalachian Trail Hiker" of the family.  My wife i=
s proud of me and doesn't hesitate to tell her circle of friends (Thanks, M=
rs. Bear!).

But there's something else, perhaps more important: It's just plain beautif=
ul out there!  So often your hear variations on the quote "The journey is t=
he destination".  Remember that wonderful scene from The Little Prince, whe=
re they watch a passenger train go roaring by.  It's the little children wh=
o are looking out the train windows to see the wonders of the countryside. =
 The adults, the "serious" people, are too busy, too concerned about just g=
etting to wherever they're going.

So ... there is a second drive:

2) The need to be in, and enjoy, and be part of the world.  I say "the worl=
d" not "nature".  Yes, there's lots of nature, lots of wildness out there (=
although perhaps not enough), but there's also lots of history, lots of cul=
ture and not least, lots of great folks.  One of the great lessons I learne=
d in my days and weeks on the trail is the variety of locales, the variety =
of landscapes, from the very wild (like some of the areas in Maine I went t=
hrough on this particular hike) to the very tame (like the beautiful walks =
along the Housatonic in Connecticut).  I loved the whole of it.  And all th=
e towns and hamlets along the way from Culver's Gap to Fort Montgomery to K=
ent to Manchester to Hanover to Gorham to Andover to Stratton.  All differe=
nt, all charming (well I'm not sure I would call Hanover exactly charming!)=
 and each one a positive experience.  Those who blindly follow the trail to=
 get to the end and say "There, I did it!" are missing an awful lot.  In a =
way I'm glad my schedule put me among the thru-hikers that would finish wel=
l into October, rather than among those who finished up much earlier.  They=
 seemed to be enjoying the journey very much.  I'm sure for most of them th=
e journey was the destination.  And they certainly were having a lot of fun=
 along the way.

My "Contract"
Lot's of AT hikers make a "contract" with themselves.  What they expect to =
accomplish, what rules they will follow, etc.   I have no contract. At leas=
t not in words.  The best I can come up with is to use the AT as a structur=
e, a starting point, a "goal" if you must use that word, to get out there a=
nd enjoy and be a part of the world.  I don't worry too much about how many=
 tenths of a mile or how many white blazes along the trail I missed here an=
d there.  But I sure am unhappy that I missed the Aurora Borealis on Septem=
ber 7th (Darn! We slept through it!).  And I sure am glad I didn't miss loo=
king down into Oak's Gulf from the top of Mount Eisenhower on July 12th.  M=
aybe my contract is to just "Stop and smell the roses".

Lot's of folks have asked me "Well, are you going to do the rest of the tra=
il?".  To be honest, I have no idea.  It's a reasonable goal but there are =
lots of things out there that I also wouldn't mind doing.  Perhaps they're =
asking me the wrong question.  If they asked "Are you going to keep on stop=
ping and smelling the roses?.

YES, I AM!