[at-l] Bow drill was Survivor

[daveh@psknet.com (Dave Hicks)]

If you are in old pines, it is relatively easy.

Old rotten pine stumps have a core of wood, normally below ground level,
that is near pure pitch and will not contain water.

Make your socket piece and tinder from it.

Make your bit from trimmed down strait piece of squaw wood, cutting off all
noticeably damp outside layers, yet a tad larger than most instructions.
Don't forget to carve yourself a palm piece.

Bow away and fire will come.

Now hard woods are near impossible.  ;-)}

Chainsaw


----- Original Message -----
From: "Clark Wright" <icw39@ncfreedom.net>
To: "kahley" <kahley@ptd.net>
Cc: "Billie H. Cleek" <cleek@cleekhouse.com>; <at-l@mailman.backcountry.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: [at-l] Bow drill was Survivor


> all I can say, is that it still don't work for SH**T if yer board is
> damp, and yer tinder is damp!!  I always had fun doing it for scouts,
> where we had ultra dry, perfect "socket board" wood, and wonderfully dry
> tinder; heck, I even got a few fires going with flint and steel in those
> conditions!  However, I personally have NEVER seen a fire built from
> scratch in wet conditions in the woods . . .
>
> thru-thinker
>
> kahley wrote:
> >
> > At 08:20 AM 3/11/02 -0600, Billie H. Cleek wrote:
> > >In my experience bow drill firemaking is at all difficult.  For me the
> > >most difficult part of the process if finding the fireboard, drill, and
> > >chock.  But, that's why I look for materials EVERYTIME I'm hiking
> >
> > I prolly have more trouble because I only know the theory and not
> > the nitty gritty.  The rig is easy enough to build (leather does work
> > better than shoelaces cause it grips the drill better) but I guess I
> > need practice on finding the best wood type for the board.  The time
> > I succeeded, I was using a dried piece of unknown species drift
> > wood (actual board)  which really worked well.
> > What is best to look for in the board and drill?
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