[at-l] Ready's Journal :Sept 22 TrailDay 100...WOOHOOO!!!!!

[kahley7@ptd.net (kahley)]

You can write to Ready    readyhiker@pocketmail.com


What an incredible day! It began before dawn. Spur was up
and dressed first, as usual, but I was not far behind. By 6:30
AM we hit the trail on our trek to Katahdin Stream, where we'd
sign in and check the weather forecast. If tomorrow's forecast
was not a clear improvement over today's, we'd be summiting
today. The rain, in the meantime, had resumed as we began our day.
Past Daicey Pond and hiking on a really nice, even trailbed, we
chatted amiably about the day, our contingency plans should the
  weather forecast be really foul, and what we'd do once we got
home from the trail.
We were hiking alongside Elbow Pond. Spur was recounting an
experience he'd had on his '99 hike. As I listened, I noticed
someone on the trail ahead. "Brown pack cover?" I thought. I
did a mental checklist of who it might be out in front of us, but
came up empty. I continued to listen and figured I'd get a clearer
view of the "mystery hiker" around the next bend in the trail
since it appeared we'd be overtaking this hiker shortly.
As we made our way around that bend however, my heart did a
double-beat. It was a moose! A *huge* moose with a huge pair
of antlers! I gestured to Spur, but could not utter a single word.
Fortunately, he stopped talking, looked in the direction to
which I was gesturing and saw the moose, too!
Spur was able to get a few photos by following the moose across
the trail and into the woods while I stood transfixed by the whole
scene. I was struck by the pungent odor in the air where the
moose had been. I guessed this was "musk" - it was moose
rutting season, after all.
Amazing. We'd not seen a single moose since VT, excluding
the one we'd seen from a truck in Andover, ME. Today, on our
final day on the trail, we saw a beautiful moose! Our day was
looking really good to us now.
We reached the ranger station in less than an hour. Dig, Homeless
& Unemployed were starting up Katahdin already. Joe, his wife and
2 friends were preparing to do so themselves. We walked over to
see what the forecast revealed for the next few days, still undecided
about our own plans.
The forecast for today called for 80% chance of showers, overcast,
winds at 5 - 10 mph. It looked even worse for the following 3 days.
We would be climbing Katahdin today!
We shifted our unneeded gear into a hefty bag and left it on the
ranger station porch. Although it was still misting out it was not
cold. We hiked out in shorts and tank tops. "7:55 AM" we wrote
for starting time at the trailhead.
I felt strong; Spur commented that he was having trouble getting
his energy to flow. I surmised that this was owing
to the recognition that he would not likely be getting that "clear day"
he so desperately wanted for a Katahdin summit: 3 times at bat,
and foul weather each time. Pity. I also surmise that he would gain
his energy and excitement as we made upward progress.
Our first "stop" along the route was at Katahdin Stream Falls.
Beautiful! These were elaborate, thundering falls - made even more
so by the over 2" of rain that had fallen since yesterday. Experiencing
these falls was just the ticket to getting Spur charged up.
We hiked energetically for the rest of the climb to the top. The terrain
  is varied going up Katahdin. There are stretches of just about every
turf and terrain imaginable. "The "final exam" of the Trail, as Spur put
it. "Cumulative," is how I put it.
We encountered even, duff-topped trail, rugged boulder hopping sections, hand-
over-hand boulder climbing, steady cordouroyed trail, bog boards,
whaleback slabs, stone steps, talus-lined slopes -- you name it,
it's there on your way up to the summit!
The trail was slippery in spots due to the rains and high humidity.
Spur had slipped once, badly scraping an elbow.
Another time he'd scraped his knee on a rock. I hadn't slipped;
however, some tiny knicks on my knee from rock scrapes produced
a flow of blood down my shin. We were quite a sight! Spur joked he'd
  left a "piece of himself" on the mtn this time round.
We reached the Tablelands just after the mtn was shrouded by a huge
cloud. From that point forward, visibility was only about 30'. It was
getting chillier, and although the rain seemed to have stopped, the
mist in the air soon had us and all our gear soaked.
We passed many dayhikers, Songbird & EasyDay, Dig, LooseGoose,
Homeless & Unemployed, and LA Bear. In turn, Crowded Feet
passed us on his way up to the top. Katahdin was seeing good
business on this Saturday of clouds and rain.
We made it to the top around 10:45 AM. (We had both been too
excited to check our watches.) Upon reaching the top, Spur immediately
  approached the summit sign and kissed it. I, on the other hand, busied
myself getting my fleece and raingear on. It was chilly up here!
Photos, photos, photos. Hugs, kisses, tears, hoots and hollers, and
still more hugs! Crowded Feet was already there when we got there;
Dig and LA Bear were next, Songbird and Easy Day, then Loose
Goose, Homeless, and Unemployed.
We were all in high, yet paradoxically, "subdued" spirits. Katahdin
commands one's respect. Hiking the length of the AT similarly
does so. Being in the company of those who'd hiked far and long
to get here was awesome. I suspect, too, that we were, all of us,
only too keenly aware that the whole world had emphatically and
irrevocably changed during our hikes. We were about to re-enter that
new world.
It was pretty easy to distinguish between the dayhikers & the thru
hikers. Thruhikers revelled; dayhikers looked on in amazement.
There was no doubt in my mind that they fully recognized that this
was a truly momentous occasion for those who posed in their various
"victory" postures atop the sign. It was a wonderful "shared" energy
we all - thruhikers and dayhikers - were experiencing.
We stayed as long as we could, but after about 45 minutes in the
now blasting, moisture-laden wind, I needed to "de-summit." We
headed back down, me in the lead. I passed Joe and his wife, Ellen,
and their friends, Ed and Beth, on the way down. I congratulated him
and told him that Spur was still up there and would be thrilled to see
him there too. Joe pressed on.
When Spur caught me later, he was absolutely glowing about
having witnessed Joe summit, hand-in-hand with Ellen. I was so
glad he'd had that moment. Joe has held a very special place in
our hearts during this hike.
We had frequently wondered about the hikers we'd met along the
  way. How were they faring? Where were they? We thought about
them now.
There are too many names to be sure not to omit someone, so to
all of them - best wishes for successful hikes! You must sense that
you've been in our thoughts!
We moved with ease down the various sections - down the rock
scrambles, boulder spills, ledges, scree, etc. We passed Tabasco
on his way up, then WoodNymph and Shambala. They were the
last to summit, but their enthusiasm was evident. We wished them
well and hiked onward.
We stopped at Thoreau Spring and toasted our hike with an ounce-
sized Bailey's, then filled the bottle with water from the spring to take
  home with us.
We got to the falls, then to the sign-in book, in about 3 hours.
"3:00 PM" is what we wrote. (Once again, we had failed to check
our watches when we'd left the summit.)
Back at Katahdin Stream picnic area we repacked our packs, ate
our lunch and cheered Dig in. We'd scored a ride in the back of a
pick-up truck and so we took off for town and did not see any of
the others as they came in. We knew, however, that they'd know
we were happy for them.
Our ride was with a kind woman and her family. They had no room
in the cab, but had made room for us in the bed of the truck, along
with much of their gear. She gave us sleeping bags to sit on and to
cover us for the windy ride into Millinocket.
It was a splendid trip out of the park! The cold wind was barely
noticed. We were both just too happy to care about being a bit
chilled. I was keenly aware that I was more relieved that we were
done, down safely, and on our way home, than I was excited about
  having climbed Katahdin. And yet, I was thrilled to have had the experience.
As we rode out of the park, we noticed patches of blue sky overhead.
We hoped that WoodNymph, Shambala, and Tabasco were
experiencing the summit in some of that!
As we drove through town, we noticed American flags displayed
everywhere - in windows, on porches, in flower boxes, etc. Entire
storefronts were dedicated to extremely moving displays and memorials
to both the heroism and the losses that have been experienced in these
past few weeks. Even way up here in Maine, folks had been deeply
affected by this tragedy.
For the first time I recognized what we had been missing. We had
heard the horrible news, but had not been part of healing that had
been going on collectively as a nation!
Checked into the AT Lodge, we "disassembled" our gear and hung
out whatever was wet, meaning - in other words - everything in our
packs! We each got a shower. That hot water sure felt good!
Joe and his entourage arrived from their hike and we made plans to
meet for supper together at the AT Cafe just up the street. We
brought our laundry to the laundromat, started a load, then sat
at a table in the Cafe to wait for our supper companions.
I waited at a table while Spur collected and sent some email from
the phone across the street. A group of young people there had
noticed us and asked me if we'd hiked today. 'Turns out, one of
the young men is the president of the Dartmouth Outing Club!
I told him we'd be at the Gathering in October and that he should
make a point to see Nimblewill Nomad's slide show, and Earl
Shaffer's too, should he do one. They all left looking very excited
about the prospects of participating in the event.
I read my email. One of my dearest friends, also from the Red
Cross, had written. John was OK and was helping with the relief
effort. He mentioned no other names. I didn't know if this is good
news or bad. I'd have to wait longer to know for sure. Unsettling.
Joe and company arrived shortly after, as did Spur. We had a lively
conversation and ate great food, in large quantities, of course. As
we discussed travel plans, we were offered a chance to ride out
of Millinocket with them in the morning. They'd take us to Bangor.
What a stroke of luck!
We got back to the Lodge and met Don, the owner. He remembered
Spur from previous visits here. Joe stopped by our room and we
talked briefly. We were all decompressing, I suppose.
I had been resting on the bed, reflecting on our hike. I was struck
by a surprising insight. I was actually already regretting that we
would not be hiking out again tomorrow!
Hiking the AT really is a life altering experience. In summary, it's
an art of striking that delicate balance between tenacity and flexibility,
and knowing when each is to be called upon.
I'm grateful to have had this experience, and mostly I'm grateful to
Spur for having included me in it. What an adventure it has been.
I'm looking forward to all our future "adventures" as husband and
wife, partners; I know unequivocally, that ours will be a happy and
mutually growthful marriage.
How blessed we are.



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