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[at-l] Ready's Journal : Sept 12 TD 90



You can write to Ready    readyhiker@pocketmail.com

I'd slept poorly last night. Images of planes crashing into
mountains were what I recalled mostly, but I also had vague
recollections of other disturbing dreams and images.
We were up shortly after the alarm sounded. We were going
to the Pierce Pond Camp for a pancake breakfast before
hiking the 4 or so miles to the Kennebec.
Although there had been 7 of us at the lean-to and campsites,
only Joe, Spur and I had taken the opportunity to have a home-
cooked meal. Twelve pancakes, juice and coffee, and I ate every
last delicious morsel! Spur and Joe added sausage, eggs,
milk and extra juice to their repast!
The hike out from the camp was an "easy" one. There were
only a few climbs and descents. Within a brief time, my leg
was hurting again. I was glad that it would be a short hike this
morning. I kept a fairly brisk pace.
As we caught our first glimpse of the Kennebec River, rounding
the corner along the trail, we passed a southbound hiker. Spur
recognized him immediately and called out his name,"Most
Excellent Half Moon!" In response, came an enthusiastic, "Spur!?"
This was a name that I'd recognized from Spur's stories. It was
great to be meeting him. He'd hurt his knee badly and was
now healed magnificently. He had done a flipflop from PA, I
understood. We talked only briefly since we wanted to catch
  the "ferry" and get into Caratunk.
It was only a short walk further down a steep staircase and we
were on the riverbank. We could see Steve on the other shore,
waving to us. He paddled the little red canoe over to us in no time.
It's times like these that I realize that I'm hiking with someone
who is a "celebrity" on the Trail. So often, when they see Spur,
or occasionally when they hear his name, folks just want to
shake his hand or gab about his hikes. Steve recognized Spur
and asked immediately if he was going all the way up to Quebec
again. Amazing. Steve gave us the "instructional" on safe passage,
had us don life jackets, and gave us the requisite waiver of liability
forms to sign.
Steve was cheerful and affable. We paused long enough on the
paddle over to take our photo in the canoe.
This canoe ride is the only sanctioned non-walking section of an
official end-to-end hike of the AT. To indicate this, a white blaze
has been painted on the floor of the canoe. Amusing.
As we approached the other side, we could see Joe waiting for us.
We started to walk along the trail, talking about how low the river
water level was as a result of the drought.
Spur commented on how he'd forded the river during his last thruhike
because he'd wanted to be able to say that he'd "*walked* from
Georgia to Quebec." It was at precisely that moment that Joe
stopped in his tracks.
It was evident looking at his face what was going on in his brain.
He too wanted to make that claim! We wished Joe well as he
went back to the river. Spur and I hiked onward.
We were at the Caratunk B&B within minutes. Jenson and Paul
were outside loading up firewood, but they pause happily to
welcome us. Bailey, their golden lab mix, and Beastie, their
beautiful black long haired cat, came out to greet us too.
Already at the B&B was Litlle Ox, whom we'd met briefly in
Gorham. By the time we'd checked into our room, Joe and 2
section hikers had come by. Only the section hikers were staying.

As tempting as it was to stay, Joe was determined to push
on. Before leaving, he told us how it had gone with the fording.
Steve had understandably refused to ferry him back to the
other shore, so Joe waded across and then back again. His
only difficulty had been in the 2nd crossing when the water
level had reached up to his hips and he had been worried that
he may have damaged his camera. Overall however, it was
obvious that he was pleased with himself.
After Spur did numerous errands - PO package pick ups,
emailing and phone calls, we were finally ready to do our 6-mile
hike to the next shelter. We'd arranged for Paul to pick us
up and shuttle us back to the B&B.
My leg hurt some as we started out, but it was mostly level
or easily graded climbs all the way. I experienced no leg pain
after the first hour and we cruised in well ahead of our scheduled
pick up time at Pleasant Pond Shelter.
Peace and Little Ox were there. Peace planned to stay here
for the night, calling it an early day for himself. Little Ox
would be shuttling back with us.
As had been the trend since yesterday evening, our talk
was a sober one. What was on most of our minds was the
tragic incidents of the day before. It's what's occupied most
of our thoughts since we'd heard the news. Such has been
the case for everyone we'd encountered.
Paul arrived with the van right on time and we drove back to
the B&B. We stopped once to admire a spectacular skyline
featuring Avery Peak in the distance.
We got back to our room and each took showers and got in
a few zzz's. Paul drove us out to the brewery for dinner.
This place was really nice! Nice ambiance, great menu.
Sitting at a corner table when we arrived were Little Engine,
Pockets and Fletch. We pulled up some chairs and joined
  them. Overhead the TV was tuned to CNN, covering "America
under Attack: the Day After." These were the first images we'd
seen - truly horrific.
I don't think it's possible to absorb the magnitude of an event
such as this one. I found myself feeling guilty about not being
there to assist with the response, grateful for not being there -
and guilty about that, as well as being worried about my friends
and former colleagues. I'd been fearing for so many of them -
firefighters, rescue workers, and other emergency response
personnel with whom I've worked. Who among my friends were
killed or injured? How were the rest of them coping?
I was [am] finding it all too much; I'm grateful that Spur seems
  to understand this and has been such a comfort to me. The
TV images and journalistic accounts of both the suffering and
heroism alternately comforted and alarmed me.
We ate our meals and had a nice evening anyway. Occasionally
we'd break from bantering conversation to view the TV. Strange
dynamics. We went out to the giant hot tub, which was really
only luke warm, and tried to relax some.
We called Paul and he picked us up, brought us all back to the
B&B, and - when we got there - served us warm blackberry
dessert with piles of whipped cream. Good for the soul. We
all sat around the huge round dining table at the B&B and talked quietly.
We were all tired and feeling some strain about the day. We
went to bed just past 9 PM. Spur stayed up to write his journal,
  while I jotted down only some notes and fell fast asleep. I was beat.


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