[at-l] Fw: Trip Report ( long, Damascus to Erwin, July 22 - 27 )

[gaurkt@hotmail.com (Ronald Tilkens (AT section hiker))]

----- Original Message -----=20
From: Ronald Tilkens (AT section hiker)=20
To: gaurkt@hotmail.com=20
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 3:58 PM
Subject: Trip Report ( long, Damascus to Erwin, July 22 - 27 )


Background/Introduction:

I am a 48 year old male, new to this list within the last 6 - 9 months, =
who lives in Maryland. Like many, I have had a desire to hike the =
Appalachian Trail for quite some time.  The intensity of this desire has =
become higher in recent years as i have discovered a love for reading =
online journals about thru-hikes and trip reports.  I have especially =
enjoyed the collective wisdom, experience ( and humor! ) of this list.

About 95% of my AT hiking experience consists of a single annual trip, =
from 1994 to 2000, with my three kids ( and one of their friends, at =
times ), who are presently ages 18, 19, and 20.=20
My trips with the kids were between 4 and 9 days, and i catered to their =
desires, usually hiking between 8 and 14 miles a day.  We would almost =
always stop at shelters ( with an occasional motel as a treat ).  The AT =
trips were all in what i have come to realize is the "easier" sections, =
between Pearisburg, VA., and Penn Mar, Md.   All of our family trips =
hold a very special, indelible memory for me!

This year would be a little different. As of january, my kids are all =
out of the house, my oldest son is in the Army in Germany, and the =
younger two had work obligations.  I wanted to do a little longer =
section, and hike more at my own pace, whatever that turns out to be.

* Please note: all mile point references are taken from the 2001 data =
book

Day one:

Started at 7:25 a.m. and drove from Burtonsville, Md., to Erwin, Tenn. =
where i had arranged to meet "shuttler extraordinaire" themissjanet.  =
For me, this was more exciting than meeting a famous movie star or =
politician!  Prompt and punctual, she drove me the scenic route to =
Damascus, passing the trail crossing and described various hikers from =
her vast experience.=20
If you read this, thank you once again, miss j, and I feel you will be =
successful with your new challenges!

The sun was still fairly hot and high as i started up Holston Mountain, =
about 5:45 p.m. I was pleased to see the mountain laurel blossoms still =
blooming. At mile 1.9, i stopped at the well-marked blue blaze for the =
spring, gratified that it was not dry.  My goal for that night was =
Abingdon Gap Shelter,at mile 10.  I was carrying two pages "excerpted" =
from the 2001 data book.  I did not ( as in past hikes ) have a copy of =
the Trail Guide for that region, and was playing my usual game of =
wondering how fast I was going.  Although darkness came noticeably =
longer ( since i was further west than usual ), i still switched on my =
headlamp about 9:20 p.m. =20

About 20 minutes later, i was grateful to see a campfire, where I met =
"Nathan", an 18 year old local youth about to go to sleep.  We =
introduced ourselves, chatted briefly, and settled in for the night. I =
was glad that i had some company.

Day two:

I awoke at 6:52 a.m., catching up from the previous night's lack of =
sleep.  Nathan lived about 20 miles away and intended to ( literally ) =
walk home.  His folks had dropped him off at Damascus, and like me, he =
had hiked up to the shelter the previous afternoon.  I started at 8:08 =
a.m., after Nathan.  The morning was bright and sunny, in the 80's, as i =
ascended easy trail over McQueens Knob.  I stopped for water frequently, =
at Low Gap ( good ), at the campsite at mile 19.3 ( excellent ).  A =
little after 1:00, I reached Tenn 91 and stopped for lunch.  The water =
source was less desirable, with trash visible.

Nathan arrived after a while, and inquired about the time.  When i =
informed him that it was about 1:30, he decided to push on home for the =
night, since he had done from this point until Carvers Gap.  We started =
walking, and he seemed to actually like waiting for me, with my slower =
pace up hills.  Walking and talking with Nathan was great - I felt like =
i had my own tour guide! Nathan was a gentle spirited young man who had =
been home schooled, the son of a Mennonite preacher.  He pointed out =
various landmarks as we walked along - Shady Valley, the Nick Grindstaff =
monument, and Grandfather mountain to the east.  Nathan said that the =
view was one of the best that he had ever seen, and he does this stretch =
of trail "about once a month".  Nathan also mentioned how he especially =
hated the section of trail north of Neels Gap, and that it was "not like =
the profile map" ( the second time i had been warned about this stretch =
).  I was sorry to seem him leave when we reached Turkeypen Gap, mile =
28.

I reached my intended campsite shortly after, at mile 29.2, about 5:15, =
and still bright and sunny.  I quickly located the spring ( good water, =
but a little slow ) and sat down to rest.  A small swarm of gnats (?) =
decided to feast on the line between my left gaiter ( gaiters were a =
first for this trip ), and a neat little row of bites quickly appeared.  =
I made a small fire, intending to keep the critters at bay, and cooked =
supper.  Since the walking had been fairly easy, and there was nothing =
to do, i decided to stock up on water and go on to Vandeventer Shelter ( =
no close water ).  I arrived there shortly before dark, enjoying a cool, =
steady breeze and a view to the eastern mountains that will remain in my =
mind for quite some time!

Day three:

Woke shortly before dawn, cooked breakfast slowly, and ritualistically =
consumed my two 6 ounce cups of coffee. I started about 6:12 a.m. - =
ideal time, for me.  I hoped to capitalize on the early morning =
coolness, stop at Watauga Lake, then at Laurel Falls later in the =
afternoon or early evening.  Despite a pleasant breeze in the early =
a.m., it became increasingly clear that this day was hotter than the =
previous.  I met two section hiker couples and chatted briefly: one =
party was doing Erwin to Damascus and the other, Hot Springs to =
Damascus.  The latter party had stayed at Kincora, and confirmed what my =
body was feeling - the humidity was double what it was the previous day.

Around 10:30, I reached Shook Branch Recreation Area ( thanks to this =
list, i became aware of the ALDHA online guide ).  I paid my $2.00 for =
the day use fee, and found a tree with some shade.  After some time =
doing the usual sorting and digging through my pack, i was ready for the =
water.  Just as i went in, the sun went behind a cloud. I kept waiting =
for it to come out, but it never did, and i noticed the clouds growing =
darker.  I had intended to hang out there for quite some time, relax, =
read, swim, but now thought of "plan B".  An 1800' ascent up to Pond =
Flats was my next objective, so i had lunch, left a little after 12:00, =
and enjoyed the light drizzle as i traveled on the extremely well graded =
trail north of the mountain. =20

It rained off and on while i climbed up, over, and down the mountain.  =
The south side had some surprisingly steep descents, made even more =
interesting in the mud.  I was thankful for hiking poles, something i =
had originally scoffed at, but decided to try due to painful knees.  I =
was greatly looking forward to Laurel Falls, then perhaps Kincora or =
Laurel Creek Lodge.  It became sunny and humid once again as the trail =
joined what appeared to be an old railroad bed. I stopped for water at =
Laurel Fork Shelter, a steep, but short, uphill on the blue-blazed high =
water route.  Laurel Falls was all that i had imagined!  There were =
several parties at the falls, including a college-aged section hiker =
couple from doing Springer to approximately Roanoke, an enviable, big =
chunk of a section!

I rested, enjoyed several swims, cooked supper, and watched as a brief =
little deluge poured through the trees and bright sunlight - what a =
sight!  By this time, it was around 5:30 p.m.  The data book excerpts =
showed a campsite at mile 54.2, a little less than 5 miles from here, =
though it was necessary to climb another couple thousand feet up White =
Rocks Mountain.  A couple miles further was Moreland Gap Shelter ( 56.4 =
). Since i was looking forward to exploring early morning and early =
evening, something that i had not done much previously, i started up the =
VERY steep trails/stairs that comprise the AT southbound from Laurel =
Falls, once again joining the former railroad bed.  The trail up White =
Rocks Mtn. was also a pleasant grade, and i was nearly at the top when i =
heard a crashing sound in the bushes.  Looking over to the area, i saw a =
bear cub hurriedly moving away.  I was glad of this, and keeping an eye =
out for the mother, hurriedly moved on to the top of the mountain, where =
i stopped at the Fire Tower.  Since it was not too hot and still light, =
i decided to go for the shelter. I saw another small bear cub before =
reaching the shelter, shortly after 9:00 p.m.

Day four:

Up at 5:01 a.m. to overcast and humid sunless skies.  I was worried =
about the section that i would soon encounter that was "harder than the =
profile map" - the one Nathan had said that he hated.  I had recently =
read Nimblewill Nomad's book that had described a section in Canada =
which was very steep, going up and down gorges, that had limited him to =
his lowest mileage, about 9 miles a day.  The trail between Moreland Gap =
Shelter ( 56.4 ) and Laurel Fork ( 61.5 ) was more difficult than the =
profile map, but not really the horrible section that i was imagining by =
this time ( severals days of simmering fear ).=20

I met two section hikers near Walnut Mountain Road that were doing =
Springer to Damascus and chatted briefly.  I lunched briefly at the top =
of Big Pine Mountain.  The downhill into Sugar Hollow was hot and =
sweaty, and the trail was VERY steep up the south side of the hollow.  I =
met the self-described "last of the NOBOs" near the spot where the AT =
passes by a grave yard.  He was packing a violin as well as the usual =
gear. I will try to get names next time ( it just occurred to me that =
many articles on this list mention names, although do section hikers =
really NOT have trail names most of the time? ).

I crossed U.S. 19E and arrived at Apple House Shelter about 2:45 p.m., =
and settled in for a nice long break.  This was my original destination, =
but i was looking forward to seeing the balds and Roan Mountain.  The =
skies opened up and it poured for about a half and hour before tapering =
off to intermittent drips.  Since this was the second day of wet feet, i =
was really being to enjoy giving "da feets" some air for breaks longer =
than an hour, and removing my muddy gaiters.=20

I cooked an early supper, ate, and started up to Doll Flats, another =
couple thousand feet higher.  The trail was once again well-graded, =
similar to trail up Pond Flats.  Nice job, Tennessee Eastman Hiking =
Club! ( if this is not correct, someone please let me know who deserves =
the credit for this fine trail work).  I reached Doll Flats ( 73.2 ) a =
little before 6 p.m., and headed down a longer than usual, but almost =
flat, trail to the spring.  My guide book notes showed a campsite at =
76.5, Bradley Gap. I thought Overmountain, 78.9, would be further than i =
would want to go.  Not wanting to stop at 6, by myself, with 3 more =
hours of light, i left after a 15-20 minute break in a light drizzle.  =
The drizzle soon turned into a steady, soaking rain.  As the trail =
headed toward Hump Mountain, i thought i was back in Pennsylvania - it =
turned into almost all large rocks/boulders, especially slippery in the =
rain.=20

I noticed the trees getting smaller and smaller.  I rounded a corner and =
there was the bald of  Hump Mountain, hugged by low-lying clouds on =
either side, stunningly beautiful nonetheless.  I donned my cheap rain =
jacket ( a recent upgrade from my 4 Hefty trash bag system ) and started =
up and over.  The trail was a little more difficult than i had thought - =
it was narrow, muddy, and difficult to "get a groove going" with my =
hiking poles.  The wind was strong and "pushed back" against me as i =
ascended, then descended Hump Mountain.  I was very happy to finally be =
on the start of the balds, but looking forward to settling in for the =
night soon.  I was surprised to encounter a herd of what someone told me =
later were Texas Longhorn cattle - big giants with huge horns.  They =
grudgingly allowed me to stay on the trail.  I did not really want to =
take much of a detour as the surrounding meadows were chest-high with =
flowers and grasses and by this time, very wet.  I was glad i was =
wearing my rain jacket!

I could see down between the "humps", Hump and Little Hump Mountain, and =
was trying to guess exactly where the campsite was located.  The profile =
map shows it at the very bottom, but this was obviously not correct ( i =
am used to the usually small inaccuracies in the profile maps ).  I =
could not see up Little Hump because it was covered with clouds.  But =
into the trees i went, and soon encountered a nice spring.  I filled up =
my water bottles and headed down the trail for what must have been at =
least two tenths of a mile  to the campsite, pitching my tent in light, =
dripping rain. =20

It really poured around 1:00 a.m., and i discovered that my relatively =
new bivy could use another round of seam sealer - i didn't quite get all =
the spots.  Between the couple leaks, and my nocturnal bathroom breaks, =
my tent and synthetic sleeping bag were fairly damp by morning.  But i =
merely wet, not cold.

Day five:

I was surprised to find that i slept until a little before 7:00 - i must =
have been more tired than i realized, after a couple 23+ days, combined =
with a couple 4,000+ vertical days ( my method of attempting to measure =
relatively difficulty of sections ).  I slowly did my breakfast thing =
and packing thing, separating damp/wet items were possible.  I traveled =
the small remaining trail up Little Hump Mountain, reached the top, =
leaving the trees.  The sun was trying to come out, and i soon spied a =
red barn, which i had heard was Overmountain shelter.  The walking was =
pleasant, and i pushed on to Stan Murray, where I took another "foot =
break" and tanked up on water.  While ascending an occassionally steep =
trail up to Jane Bald i met a hiker doing another "big section", Fontana =
to Troutdale.=20

The sun finally emerged just as i came to the top of Jane Bald, with =
views of Grassy Ridge to the east.  The view was so overwhelming that =
tears came to my eyes, and i paused to thank my "higher power" for =
allowing me this experience.  I enjoyed this stretch, and was interested =
to see the trail improvements near Round Bald.  I was hoping to see =
"Gray's Lily", having recently purchased a copy of Leonard Adkins' =
"Wildflowers of the Appalachian Trail" in hopes of learning more about =
the flowers that i have always enjoyed but been unable to identify.  I =
didn't go off the trail much, but didn't see a Gray's Lily -  a little =
too late, perhaps? ( if anyone knows a little more about them, i would =
be interested to hear about them ). =20

Carvers Gap was visible, though Roan Mountain was still shrouded in =
clouds.  I stopped at the spring a little to the west of the Carvers Gap =
parking area ( trail has been slightly relocated between Carvers Gap and =
Roan Mountain, according to signs.  After a brief break and conversation =
with one of the many persons who confide that they "always wanted to =
hike the trail", i started up the once again well-graded trail, stopping =
at Roan Mountain High Knob Shelter for lunch.  I explored the loft =
briefly, swept out the shelter ( something i did at every shelter at =
which i stopped for breaks or lunch ), took off the boots and gaiters, =
and had lunch.  The skies opened up, and the shelter resonated with the =
sounds of rain beating on the roof.  The windows were open, and the =
breeze helped to enforce the shelter's reputation as "one of the coldest =
places in the south".  But this is one reason why i had picked the =
Damascus to Erwin section to do in July - in hopes of escaping some of =
the summer heat.

It was a little after 2:00 by this time.  I headed for Clyde Smith =
Shelter ( 91.3 ), not really wanting to spend another night in the bivy =
if possible.  I continued near the top of Roan Mountain in fog and mist =
that limited the visiblity to around 100 feet, though the rain had =
slowed to an enjoyable, cooling, light drizzle - optimum summer hiking =
conditions, for me.  I passed a party of overnight camper's while =
descending the VERY steep south side of Roan Mountain headed towards Ash =
Gap.  Though it had been over 25 years since I had hiked about 1/2 of =
the AT in the White Mountains, the trail made me think of the Whites and =
my best hiking buddy Gary, due to hike the Whites this same week.  Ash =
Gap was a little dismal in the mud and dampness, and the spring and =
trail were somewhat farther and steeper than i would have liked, but i =
was able to get water from the slow trickling spring.  I wondered how =
the spring would be in the drier years, climbed back up to the trail, =
and descended a more pleasantly graded path/road into Hughes Gap.  Once =
again, the skies opened up and poured as I ascended rather steep, but =
short trail up Little Rock Knob.  I was happy to reach the shelter =
around 6:00 p.m., my shortest day so far on the trip. =20

For the first time on this trip i was content to stop early, ready to =
relax, enjoy a leisurely supper, the usual foot magic, and reading the =
shelter journals ( more often than not, there were no journals at the =
shelters during this trip for some reason ), and an interest outdoor =
magazine.  I looked at the map and tried to plan the next day, thinking =
that i could camp at Deep Gap ( 104.3 ) or Beauty Spot Gap ( 105.6 ). I =
wished i could make it all the way to Curley Maple Gap Shelter ( 112.2 =
), but was uncertain about the map profile and the difficulty of the =
trail.  Indeed, one register journalist had commented "I wish i could =
sue the map makers who created the profile" - not a comment to instill =
confidence in this hiker!  I had tried a little night hiking briefly two =
years ago, and enjoyed it greatly.  I figured i would try to wake up =
around 4:00, start hiking around 5:00 and this would give me a "boost" =
toward my goal of the shelter.  I fell asleep before dark, around 8:30 =
p.m. as the rain started to pour for at least the third time that day.

Day six:

I glanced at my watch after waking around 2:00 a.m. for one of my =
nocturnal bathroom visits.  Between drinking 6 - 8 quarts of water and =
day, and taking a lot of ibuprofen, i found myself needing to take =
bathroom breaks multiple times during the night.  Thinking i would grab =
another couple hours of sleep, i lay back down, but could not resist the =
worries about the next day.  Around 2:30 a.m., i gave up trying to =
sleep, had my extra leisurely morning routine with breakfast, packing, =
and trying to find the spring again. The fog and mist were thick, and =
visibility was probably only 15 -20 feet.  But this actually fit nicely =
with the range of my headlamp.  I found a blue blaze, and the distinct =
trail down to the spring ( good - very good outflow ), but did not =
immediately see the side trail back to the A.T. in the diminished =
conditions.

At 3:52 a.m., i started out with more than a little excitement and fear. =
 I intended to walk slowly and deliberately, but steadily, curious what =
would be my rate of speed.  The next guidebook milepoints were a =
campsite at 92.4, and Greasy Creek Gap, and 93.2.  I wondered if i would =
recognize the campsites in the dark.  This would be my second AT =
experience of hiking an hour or more, and it was not disappointing!  The =
trail continued gently downhill, with a few brief uphills.  Both =
campsites displayed the now familiar "water" signs that pointed to the =
springs or water sources.  I continued toward Iron Mountain Gap, Tenn. =
107, still very dark, still very foggy.  I looked to my right and was =
surprised to see two pair of gleaming, gold eyes about 20 feet away.  =
Hoping they were deer, i continued on.  At one point, i heard a sound =
that i thought was a coyote or mountain lion, but later thought it was =
an owl. =20

Daylight slowly came between 6:00 and 7:00 - closer to 7:00.  Once =
again, it was overcast and gray, so there was not too much light.  But =
it still was a welcome change from the pitch black of the night.  The =
ascent up Little Bald Knob ( 98.5 ) was especially steep, but thankfully =
short. I reached Cherry Gap Shelter a little after 9:00 and took a nice =
long break.  The water source was a lot closer than the 250-300 yards, =
and constant.  I studied the profile map for the umpteenth time, =
realized that Unaka Mountain was the only 1,000+ ascent of the day, and =
headed off up the well-graded north side of the mountain.  It soon began =
to rain, slowly, but steadily.  Guessing that it was going to blow over, =
i put on my pack cover, but not my rain jacket, continuing up the =
mountain. =20

Unaka Mountain has a lot of laurels on the north side and an enchanting =
mix of pines and moss on top, really quite beautiful.  By this time, it =
was raining harder, and i was getting a little cool, and put on the rain =
jacket.  Once again, the descent down the south side of the mountain =
reinforced what i had read about the Damascus to Erwin section, easier =
SOBO than NOBO.  Near USFS 230, i encountered my first humans in around =
26 hours, a 10 - 12 teenage boys with an older male adult.  Still =
raining moderately, i stopped briefly at Deep Gap ( 104.3 ), and hiked =
on to Beauty Spot Gap.  I remember the trail was a veritable river with =
the rain, and i sympathized with the trail maintainers.  I stopped at =
the gap for water and an abbreviated lunch, since it still was raining =
slightly.  Beauty Spot Gap was inspiring, even in the damp conditions, =
as flowers and birds were prevalent.  A new pain started in my left knee =
as i left Beauty Spot.  I stopped and transferred my still very wet =
single ace bandage from my right knee to my left knee, and slowly and =
deliberately descended 1000+ feet, crossing USFS230, heading for Indian =
Grave Gap.  It was after 2:00 p.m., i had lunch in my belly, and i was =
feeling a little drowsy.  I would have loved to stop right by the trail, =
lean back on my pack, and take a snooze, but the still damp conditions =
were a deterrent.

I wondered about the trail as i crossed Indian Grave Gap ( 108.1 ) and =
headed for Curley Maple.  Would the "little bumps" of the profile map be =
like the section between Neels Gap and Moreland Gap?  The trail turned =
out to have very gentle ups and downs.  I was treated to some of my =
first views since Round Bald, looking to the west towards Erwin.  I =
reached Curley Maple Gap Shelter ( 112.2 ) around 4:30 p.m.  By this =
time, i was on a "mission", realizing that the Nolichucky River and my =
car were "only" 5.2 miles away.  After another "foot break", water =
resupply, i headed down towards the Nolichucky.  Once again, the skies =
just poured, and the trail became a river.

I reached my car a little after 7:00 p.m. I called my wife, told her i =
was heading home, got some burgers, and headed up the interstate, =
feeling tired but triumphant. I continued on until i reached the =
Troutville/Daleville/Cloverdate intersection a  little north of Roanoke =
and i spent the night at the Econolodge, where my son, friend and i had =
"staged" ourselves prior to last year's section hike between Craig Creek =
Valley and Pearisburg.

Postlude:

I often fear i am in a little "fantasy world" as i comfortably sit at =
home and read journals and trip reports year-around, impervious to the =
outside's hot and cold, wet and dry conditions.  I have my own =
"thru-hiking" aspirations at times, but since circumstances are not =
right am becoming increasingly content with section hikes.   One =
negative factor was that there was very few hours of sunlight from about =
11:00 a.m. on the third day.  I knew i was no big fan of rainy wet =
conditions - indeed, it seems like i have enjoyed a disproportionately =
high number of dry days during my past trips, so i figure odds are i am =
due for some rain.  I hope to learn how to cope better with the rain, =
especially with my emotional/mental state.  I was somewhat shocked by my =
intense desire on the sixth day to get back to civilization, my wife =
whom I married in 1998, and the "creature comforts". Okay, i warned you =
i can be in a little "fantasy world" at the computer! I was originally =
going to do Hot Springs to Damascus, but at the insistence of my wife, =
scaled down my trip.  Seems like a good idea in retrospect, but i still =
would like to try a "multiple weeks" chunk

I do see were a lot of positives from this trip: this was the first =
longer one by myself, and the planned miles were challenging.  I
absolutely LOVED the comfort of my headlamp, the gaiters, my hiking =
poles, the esbit stove i used for the first time, the gaiters, the =
swimming which i always love.

Haven't totaled the numbers yet, but I think it is around 775.  Looking =
forward to many more sections . . .

Ron Tilkens


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